Our People > K Krombie

K Krombie

Senior Editor and Journalist

K. Krombie is a freelance journalist, lecturer, editor, and the author of Death in New York (published in 2021), which explores death in the Big Apple from experiments in embalming and capital punishment to the vagaries of the mortuary business. Krombie also owns a tour company called Purefinder New York, which focuses on NYC behind the scenes. She lectures on subjects ranging from Oppenheimer and the Cold War to the World Nomad Games.

Articles

Kazakh Diaspora

NoMad Nights: Celebrating Kazakh Identity at New Year in New York

There’s no party like a New Year NoMad Kazakh Party. Staged slightly ahead of New Year’s Eve to align with the weekend, the glamorous event marked a welcome to the incoming 2026 as well as a celebration of Kazakh culture in New York City. The Sky Wise Lounge, a fashionable Asian fusion venue with regular live entertainment, is located in Brooklyn’s Sheepshead Bay. The neighborhood has a sizable Central Asian population rooted in the former Soviet diaspora and sustained by post-Soviet migration. Events like this one are part of an expanding series of multi-city gatherings across the United States hosted by ATB Promotions, led by Kazakhstani entrepreneur, Talgat Abdrakhmanov. A rotating group of about half a dozen DJs brings high-energy sets that fuse their own mixes with crowd-favorite Kazakhstani hits. [caption id="attachment_41575" align="aligncenter" width="455"] Talgat Abdrakhmanov (right) at NoMad Nights[/caption] Abdrakhmanov, originally from Karaganda, has achieved the American dream. Like other successful immigrants, he has built a business by adopting, adapting, and commercializing the enterprising customs of the U.S. After arriving in New York City in 2012, Abdrakhmanov worked his way up from a dishwasher and a waiter to a customer service representative. He later worked as an IT quality assurance analyst and in the competitive worlds of Wall Street and Silicon Valley. But it was not all work. While navigating employment and IT studies, Abdrakhmanov also embraced the play element of his American life, particularly nightlife and dance music, where he began to notice an unmet demand within his community. During this time, he developed an idea rooted in his own downtime preferences and a desire to cater to fellow immigrants from Kazakhstan. Initially, he organized small meetups with friends at restaurants and sports bars, as well as group outings to soccer games and boxing matches, including bouts featuring former Kazakhstani middleweight world champion Gennady Golovkin, widely known as GGG. “That was the initial spark that gave me an idea to make parties and events in the future,” Abdrakhmanov told The Times of Central Asia. “That’s how ATB Promotions came up.” The Kazakhstani community in the U.S. was receptive to Abdrakhmanov’s first networking foray, KazCommunity USA. “I started KazCommunity USA back in 2016, because I had held many jobs and gained a lot of experience, and people were often asking me for advice, where to find a job, where to find a place to live, how to do this, how to do that. Based on those questions, I decided to create chats and groups on Facebook, Telegram, and WhatsApp, so they exist across different social media platforms. “KazCommunity USA is really about the community. I never charged any money for it. It’s more like a nonprofit initiative that helps people find work, find a place to live, and connect with each other. That includes organizing meetups and events, some of which I later did through ATB Promotions. But KazCommunity itself is free and focused on helping people and building connections within the community.” Abdrakhmanov’s efforts to connect U.S.-based Kazakhstani...

8 months ago

Turkmen Music

From the Central Asian Steppe to Manhattan: A Turkmen Bard in New York

A halal Chinese Muslim restaurant in New York City is an unlikely setting for a concert by a highly acclaimed bard of the Turkmen tradition. Yet on a Saturday afternoon in Manhattan’s Kips Bay neighborhood, before an audience of attentive listeners and curious onlookers peering through the window, the multi-award-winning Mohammad Geldi Geldi Nejad filled Beef Up Noodle with sustained melodic phrases and guttural embellishments. At times, his dexterous strumming of the dutar, a two-stringed long-necked lute, deliberately mimicked the rhythm of galloping horse hooves central to the Turkmen bardic style. Mohammad was raised in the Turkmen community of Gonbad-e Kavus in northeastern Iran. At age ten, he became only the second musician ever to receive the honorary title Oghlan Bakhshi, meaning Child Bard. His musical education in Turkmen bardic traditions began in early childhood, before more formal training in Turkmenistan’s capital, Ashgabat. Turkmen culture, shaped by a nomadic heritage, extends across Turkmenistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, and Kazakhstan, with smaller populations in Turkey, Iraq, and the North Caucasus. It draws on nomadic traditions where performance serves as a primary vehicle of cultural expression. Central Asian music and culture, carried by diasporic communities from these regions, has found a growing audience in the United States. Turkmen traditions, however, given the minuscule size of the Turkmen population in the U.S., remain largely unfamiliar to most audiences. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/WhatsApp-Video-2025-12-17-at-18.16.28.mp4"][/video] Even so, Mohammad has brought his music to audiences beyond Turkmenistan and Iran, performing in parts of Europe and the U.S., including recent concerts at the Lowell Folk Festival in Massachusetts and at Roulette in Brooklyn. At the latter, he offered Western listeners rare access to a musical lineage sustained within a family across generations. Performing under his honorific alias Oghlan Bakhshi, he appeared alongside his father, the gyjak, or spike fiddle, master Abdolghaffar Geldinejad, and his wife and regular musical collaborator, Zyyada Jumayeva, a dutar player who represents the female bardic tradition of Turkmenistan. His album Journey Across the Steppes is the first international release of Turkmen folk music in 30 years. His work has also been documented in a book series, The Music of Central Asia. At Beef Up Noodle, Mohammad’s performance, titled Songs of the Bakhshi: Turkmen Bardic Heritage, formed part of a broader curatorial landscape shaped by ethnomusicologist Mu Qian, whose work spans scholarship, publishing, and community-based music making. From Zayton to New York is the concert series he curates, exploring how music travels through histories of migration and exchange. Mohammad’s appearance opened a Central Asian trilogy within the series, to be followed by programs devoted to Kyrgyz and Kazakh musical traditions in early 2026. This trilogy represents one strand of Mu Qian’s wider mission, developed through the See & Sea Cultural Foundation, to support minority musicians and bring underrepresented musical cultures from across Asia into conversation with audiences beyond their places of origin. [caption id="attachment_41154" align="aligncenter" width="1283"] Mu Qian with Mohammad Geldi Geldi Nejad; image: Paul Adams[/caption] British expat Margaret Murray, an audience member whose chance meeting...

8 months ago

Photography

Grounding the Stars: Andrew McConnell’s Lens on Space and the Steppe

Award-winning photographer and filmmaker Andrew McConnell has dedicated his career to illuminating the world’s overlooked regions and underreported stories. He has a distinctive ability to examine major global issues and events from fresh, often unexpected perspectives. Ordinary people in extraordinary circumstances are the focus of McConnell’s lens. From conflict zones in the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the hidden lives of the Sahrawi people in Western Sahara, his work frequently highlights human endurance in challenging environments. His new book, Some Worlds Have Two Suns, takes a different direction. It explores the vast, remote Kazakh Steppe, where the sparse local population coexists with the high-tech world of space travel. The project began in 2014 after he filmed his documentary Gaza. While decompressing at home in Ireland, he watched a BBC documentary about a Soyuz spacecraft landing in the Kazakh Steppe. The stark contrast between destruction and human achievement struck him. “I turned to my parents and said, ‘I’m gonna go and see that.’” That moment sparked an eight-year journey documenting the Russian ground crews recovering astronauts and the communities living beneath these celestial homecomings. TCA: You visited the Kazakh Steppe multiple times to document the Soyuz landings. How many trips did you make and what were the challenges of reaching such a remote location? Andrew: I probably made a dozen. I would join the ground crew in Karaganda, which is not far from Astana, and from there they head out to the Steppe, and depending on whether it's winter or summer they have different vehicles for either one. In summer, the Steppe is fine to drive on, so they have four by fours and we head out and set up camp the day before the Soyuz arrives. They know the exact time the Soyuz will land, right down to the second, and it always goes to the same location, which is a group of tombs. You can see those in the book, the two horsemen beside these tombs. These are old nomadic burial tombs, maybe 300 years old, so that, initially, was very interesting to me… you know, what are these? The Steppe is this unending boundless void of nothingness, just flat grassland. At first, as a photographer, it was quite underwhelming because visually, how do you make that interesting? But here were these tombs in the middle of nowhere and it was instantly fascinating. That was always the base camp. I don’t know if that’s where Rocosmos aimed Soyuz, but that’s where it came into the atmosphere every time I saw it. It would enter the atmosphere above these tombs. The parachute deploys and then it depends on the wind because they can drift for 20 kilometers. A couple of times it was a windless day, and the Soyuz dropped within sight of these tombs. I had a fantasy that it would drop in the middle of it. [caption id="attachment_28250" align="aligncenter" width="2000"] Nomadic burial tombs, Soyuz landing zone, Kazakhstan, 2018; image: Andrew McConnell[/caption] TCA: What shifted your focus from the...

2 years ago

Art and Culture

Exploring Uzbekistan’s Cultural Tapestry – Trio Fadolín’s From Near and Far in NYC

Earlier this month, the Library for the Performing Arts at Manhattan’s Lincoln Center resonated with the vibrant sounds of From Near and Far, a new musical project by the New York-based ensemble Trio Fadolín. The performance, part of the New York Public Library’s cultural programming, captivated audiences with its rich exploration of Uzbek musical traditions and beyond. Suspense, melancholy, and drama were interwoven with personal stories shared by Ljova (Lev Zhurbin), a member of the ensemble and virtuoso of the fadolín — a one-of-a-kind string instrument custom-made for him — blending the tonal depth of the violin, viola, and cello. The program featured compositions by Ljova, Uzbek composer Dmitry Yanov-Yanovsky, and Ljova’s father, the renowned Soviet-era composer Alexander Zhurbin. Adding a poignant layer to the evening, Alexander Zhurbin attended the concert in person, providing a tangible connection to the ensemble’s exploration of cultural and familial roots. [embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guMv_IRHstg[/embed] Alexander Zhurbin, 1985 Much of Ljova’s career has been dedicated to uncovering and performing music from underrepresented regions, introducing audiences to sounds often unfamiliar in the West. Born in Moscow, he immigrated to New York in 1990 with his parents, quickly immersing himself in the city’s multicultural and musical landscape. As a composer, arranger, and bandleader for his ensemble, Ljova and the Kontraband, he has collaborated with globally acclaimed groups including the Yo-Yo Ma-founded Silkroad Ensemble (now called Silkroad). Ljova’s work defies boundaries, blending Eastern and Western influences to honor and innovate musical traditions. The trio's members — Ljova, violinist Sabina Torosjan (born in Estonia), and cellist Valeriya Sholokhova (born in Ukraine) — found a shared connection to Uzbekistan through their personal histories, which became the foundation for From Near and Far. TCA spoke with the trio about their musical and familial ties to Uzbekistan. TCA: Can you share how your personal histories connect you to Uzbekistan? Ljova: My father, Alexander Zhurbin, wrote the Soviet Union's first rock opera, Orpheus and Eurydice, in 1975. It played in stadiums and was in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest-running musical in Russia. He was born in Tashkent and lived there until his mid-20s when he moved to Leningrad — now St. Petersburg — to study, and then to Moscow to work as a composer in film, TV, musicals, and the concert stage. Sabina: Just like many people from the former Soviet Union, I have a mixed background. I grew up in Estonia. My mother’s side of the family was Ukrainian Jews and my father’s side was Armenian. The interesting connection to Uzbekistan is that it is where my father was born. His father was sent to work there as a veterinarian at the time, in Biruni, Uzbekistan. But shortly after my father was born, his family returned to Yerevan. Valeriya: My grandfather’s family sought refuge there during World War II and survived those difficult years in Uzbekistan. However, they returned to Ukraine as soon as they were able. There are pictures of my grandfather as a child wearing an Uzbek tyubeteyka, and...

2 years ago

Domestic Violence

#ForSaltanat: The Quest for Justice in Domestic Violence Cases in Kazakhstan

In the spring of 2024, the televised murder trial of Kuandyk Bishimbayev, Kazakhstan’s former Minister of the National Economy, captivated viewers across the country. Bishimbayev was found guilty of the brutal murder of his wife, Saltanat Nukenova, in a restaurant in Astana, and sentenced to 24 years in prison. Comparisons to the O.J. Simpson trial of 1995 were inevitable. Both trials involved a prominent figure — in this case, a politician previously pardoned by President Nursultan Nazarbayev after serving time for corruption — a victim who had endured domestic abuse, and a massive viewership. Bishimbayev's trial underscored public fascination with the case, driven not only by its reality TV appeal but by a growing awareness of deeply ingrained gender inequities, particularly regarding the societal expectations placed on Kazakh women within marriage. The trial’s timing occurred shortly before — and perhaps by no coincidence — new legislation was signed by President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev on April 15, 2024, amending laws to protect the rights and safety of women and children. However, critics noted an omission: a clear, targeted focus on preventing domestic violence. Two Kazakh women, who shared their stories with The Times of Central Asia, revealed the extent to which domestic violence remains embedded in Kazakh society. Rayana, from Astana, and Aliya, a Kazakh student in New York City, have never met, yet their stories echo shared challenges and hopes for change in their home country. Rayana, a beauty industry professional in her mid-twenties, reflected on her brief and tumultuous marriage, which began when she was 23. “I loved my husband, but felt it was too early to marry. We married just four months after meeting, and within a month of living together, I wanted a divorce. He was unfaithful and violent.” When Rayana sought help from her mother-in-law, she was told that her mother-in-law had also been a victim of domestic violence and that she, too, must learn to endure it. “It is worth mentioning that in Kazakhstan the north is very different from the south,” Rayana added. “I'm a northerner, he's a southerner. I had never experienced abuse before, and then for the first time, I felt a panic attack, which I still live with. In the south, people adhere more to traditions and have a negative attitude towards divorce and washing their dirty linen in public. Women keep silent about domestic violence. I can’t say anything about his family’s attitude. I still don’t fully understand.” Having grown up around domestic violence, she believes that one in two families is affected by it. After separating, Rayana’s family offered her support, while her in-laws disapproved, even throwing out her belongings. Rayana’s life since then, however, has vastly improved. “I have been working in the beauty industry for a long time. In our field, at least, climbing the career ladder is not difficult. My first supervisor helped me a lot. He spoke fondly of his wife and cared about his female employees. This gives us faith that there are good men...

2 years ago

World Nomad Games

A Yurt Full of Culture: Immersive Theater Meets Nomadic Traditions at the World Nomad Games

In and amongst the many yurts at the 2024 World Nomad Games Ethnoaul (Ethnic Village), the inhabitants of a specific yurt — not only delight and surprise passersby with boisterous renditions of Kazakh music, dance, and comical stage combat — but they energetically beckon people inside to experience the traditional familial rituals of a nomadic Kazakh marriage proposal. Guests are seated on the floor while segments of the ritual are played out and translated into English by the host, Ernur. The experience is immersive to the point where some of the observers from far-off regions were overheard congratulating the bride-to-be on her upcoming nuptials. Inside the yurt, Ernur set the scene by pointing out the players, among them, the fathers of the future bride and groom, the future bride, her future mother-in-law, and a strumming dombra player. After the union was established, the mother-in-law bestowed her daughter-to-be with gifts of jewelry. As the dombra rhythm accelerated, the fathers-in-law embraced, and the two families exchanged gifts of — in this instance — fur-collared cloaks. The wedding, Ernur explained, would occur in March, the month of the traditional Central Asian New Year (Nauryz). Upward-facing palms aided declarations of goodwill and thankfulness, followed by more music, merriment, and horse-related appetizers. A sense of genuine formality and inclusive pomp was fully realized in under ten minutes. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-13-at-12.10.55.mp4"][/video] The Mukanov Theater, named after Kazakh Soviet writer and poet Sabit Mukanov, is based in Petropavl, approximately 300 miles north of Astana near the border with Russia. Ernur, the aforementioned host and cast member, has been acting with the twenty-one-year-old Mukanov Theater for a year. Back in Petropavl, the company, which has a 200-seat theater building, performs traditional Kazakh plays, modern plays, and Shakespeare, which Ernur described as “so difficult for us!” 2024 marks the first year that they have performed at the WNG with their debut marriage proposal ceremony. Additionally, the theater company has enacted different nomadic traditions in other yurts around Kazakhstan. Ernur, who said he’d enjoyed his time in Astana, added that the Mukanov Theater was “proud that the World Nomad Games are here [in Kazakhstan].” [caption id="attachment_23140" align="aligncenter" width="720"] Left to right: Brandon, Albert and Jan at the World Nomad Games; image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] Three Western traveling companions, who met each other only recently on the backpacker trail of Central Asia, were ushered into the Mukanov Theater yurt. They each provided reviews of the immersive theater experience, and also, their individual opinions regarding the wider connotations of the performance, proportionate to Kazakhstan’s post-Soviet cultural heritage. Brandon, an American from San Francisco, has been traveling the world for nine months and thought it would be “really funny” to come to the Stans for a couple of months. “I was in Turkey, and I was like, you know what, where's the weirdest place I can think of to go to that's not too far from where I am right now? Who's ever been to Uzbekistan, right? Kazakhstan is my last stop...

2 years ago

World Nomad Games

Celebrating Female Pioneers at the 2024 World Nomad Games

Like most dominating worldwide sports, the World Nomad Games are top-heavy with male athletes. Yet while women don’t participate in all the categories, in the 2024 WNG, a noteworthy number of them have become the center of attention. Among the packed crowds of the Hippodrome and Ethnoaul venues, one competitor and two ticket holders had a few things to say on the matter of WNG women. Timea Janurik, known as Timi, is a folk musician and a PhD student in folk teaching methods, from Budapest, Hungary. She is competing as a player of the citera, the national stringed instrument of Hungary, at the Ethnoaul. The Hungarian representation at the WNG includes three men and three women, but Timi, who specializes in Turkic folk songs, is the only musician among them. While rehearsing in Astana, Timi chanced upon a Kazakh girl singer and asked her, “Do you want to join me in the concert?” Hence, a female alliance and a makeshift band were formed because Timi only knew how to sing one song in the Kazakh language. According to Timi, her new partner “can sing beautifully.” In Timi’s native Hungary, folk musicianship is an art form split evenly among men and women, but citera playing is dominated by women (and violin playing by men). [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-12-at-00.21.19.mp4"][/video] Timi is also participating in the female Assyk games, a type of traditional Kazakh board game in which players use small animal bones — assyks — to knock out multiple lines of their opponent’s assyks. The game rules differ according to gender. The male version of the game “is more popular,” says Timi, “because it’s more visible and looks so fancy to play.” [caption id="attachment_23070" align="aligncenter" width="1577"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] British visitors Naomi Ocean and Andy Myer (an archer), from Wales and Devon, respectively, came all the way from the UK to Astana to watch the horseback archery. Even though they are well-traveled in other regions of Central Asia, this is their first visit to Kazakhstan and the WNG. They remarked that they hadn’t noticed the UK team participating in anything they have witnessed thus far, but what they have seen has been “interesting and exciting.” Having just seen the Turkey team being “trashed in the kok boru,” they were happy to see Turkey’s subsequent victory in the Traditional Turkish Archery, in particular the female team member who performed victory laps before an exhilarated, mostly Kazakh crowd. “We were glad,” said Naomi, “and we loved seeing the female archers.” Naomi was equally, if not more impressed by the “mixed teams” in the horseback archery category. Having watched and enjoyed the 2016 Kazakh language documentary film, The Eagle Huntress, Naomi and Andy look forward to the Kusbegilik games. “We’re expecting to see women handling eagles, which should be good.” [caption id="attachment_23071" align="aligncenter" width="2000"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] A Turkish team victor, competing in Traditional Turkish Archery (mixed gender team), and an Uzbek athlete in horseback archery (with no specific male and female categories)...

2 years ago

World Nomad Games

Kazakhstan’s Rich Cultural Heritage: Thirteen Elements in One Yurt

Nestled among the yurts of the 2024 World Nomad Games Ethnoaul (Ethnic Village), one yurt in particular provided a promotional VIP space for the distinguished Russophone poet, politician, UNESCO ambassador, International Democratic Party Chairman of the People’s Congress of Kazakhstan, and anti-nuclear activist Olzhas Suleimenov. A hushed silence spread inside the circumference of the AZ i YA (a Russian play on the word “Asia”) yurt, named in honor of Suleimenov’s 1975 book about the conceivable Turkic origin of the epic Old East Slavic poem The Tale of Igor's Campaign. Bystanders were ushered out when the Almaty-born Suleimenov arrived. The aforementioned book caused controversy when it was released in the Soviet era and was almost banned when Suleimenov was accused of “national chauvinism” and “glorifying feudal nomadic culture.” By contrast, the purpose of the AZ i YA yurt is to educate the unenlightened and celebrate the thirteen elements of “Kazakhstan's Rich Cultural Heritage.” Those thirteen elements, as explained by the yurt’s translator and self-proclaimed “young scientist” Dana Tursynova, include Aitysh, a spoken word poetry contest with dueling dombra (two-string instrument), or the Kyrgyz komuz (two or three strings), in which two protagonists improvise on the topics of opposing ideas, retorts, and general frustrations. Tursynova described it as “conveying political problems” and “the sound of a nation [aimed at] the government.” At a neighboring yurt, Aitysh—delivered with gravelly belligerence—was audibly comparable with a modern battle rap. Another element is Nasreddin Hodja, a 13th-century folklore storyteller who—similar to the Aitysh tradition—used humor to air political grievances and other types of narrative. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-10-at-23.43.20.mp4"][/video] A further element is Korkyt-Ata (translated from Kazakh as “granddad”), a 9th-century philosopher, who, in his pursuit of immortality discovered that death was always waiting for him. As he gained enlightenment, he somehow had enough free time to craft the kobyz, an ancient Turkic stringed instrument. Thus, he is known as the founder of Kazakh string and bow instruments. The yurt, the round portable homes of the nomads, is an element, as is orteke, where the dombra musician surpasses the average one-man-band status by operating moving wooden puppets connected to his fingers via the strings to convey multi-task theater. The sports elements comprise kazakhsha kures, traditional Kazakh wrestling, which in recent times has traded the long-established grass turf for a mod con carpet, board-type games, such as Assyk, designed to sharpen the intellectual and physical development of children, and Kusbegilik, or hunting with birds of prey, a Kazakh cultural heritage as well as a major sport in the WNG. Edible elements combine katyrma flatbread, an important part of Kazakhstan’s communal relations in the interchange of goodwill (e.g. “have a good life”) when sharing the bread, and horse breeder festivities, where kumis, fermented horse milk, is the culinary highlight. The main heading of the yurt’s pamphlet handout is the substantially worded International Centre for the Rapprochement of Cultures Under the Auspices of UNESCO. In one small yurt (on one Great Steppe), the cultural round-up of folklore, tradition, and...

2 years ago

World Nomad Games

Galloping Traditions: Kokpar and Kok Boru Unleash Cultural Pride at the World Nomad Games

The Kazanat Hippodrome, with a track length of 1,800 meters, and the Astana Grand Mosque — the biggest mosque in Central Asia — dominating the background, hosted the preliminary kokpar and kok boru games, known for their respective pursuits of a headless goat carcass, on day two of the World Nomad Games. [caption id="attachment_22919" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] The layout of the Hippodrome track presents a great divide. The distance between the field and the spectators means that distinguishing the traditional headless goat carcass from the PC dummy version (serke) of the Games is an eye-squinting challenge if one doesn't engage with the obligatory big screen. The two games, which appear to be very similar if not identical, are separated by cultural nomadic origins. Kokpar is Kazakh, while kok boru is from Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz origins of kok boru (gray wolf) are rooted in an ancient post-wolf hunting tradition, where the carcass of the animal would be passed around — as in taken — among the hunters as a sporting activity while riding back to their village. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-09-at-22.33.14.mp4"][/video] To the unacquainted spectator, kok boru (and kokpar) is where various other sports — equestrianism, polo, hockey, and football — merge in a rugged horseback chase and scrum. The aim of the game is to steer the goat carcass into the donut-shaped tai kazan — or goal — of the opposing team. Each team has twelve horses and players, while four players from each team play for three 20-minute spurts with 10-minute breaks in between. In those 20-minute periods, not a single minute is wasted. [caption id="attachment_22921" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] In the kok boru games, following Turkey’s 1 - 0 win with Hungary, the mostly home crowd reserved their audible enthusiasm for Kazakhstan versus the United States in a literal East versus West match (U.S. team player and MMA fighter Nick Willert is also a competitor in horseback wrestling at the neighboring Ethnoaul). Much fanfare accompanied a parade of marching, flag-waving Kazakhs ahead of the game. From the off, the Kazakhs wiped the sandy floor with the American Cowboys. Almost every member of the Kazakh team scored points in quick succession, following taut human/horse throngs in the final stages of maneuvering the serke into the tai kazan. A general impression of the U.S. team was that they accepted their defeat with grace and humor, and were happy to be where they were. The same sentiment appeared to be shared by the Kazakh spectators, who are proud that these Central Asian games are gaining recognition on the international stage. [caption id="attachment_22922" align="aligncenter" width="739"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] In the 2024 WNG, representation from the West is a growing trend for both the participants and the observers. American spectator Lisa Wagner, who was present at the kok boru games with friends and family specifically to support her fellow countrymen remarked that the Kyrgyzstan spectators in her midst were just as enthusiastic for the American team. Wagner...

2 years ago

World Nomad Games

The Rules of the Steppe: Countdown to the 2024 World Nomad Games

The countdown to the 2024 World Nomad Games (WNG) in Astana, Kazakhstan, which will take place between September 8-13, has begun. Now in its fifth incarnation, the upcoming WNG will host an estimated 3,000 athletes - including nomadic and non-nomadic participants (such as American cowboys) - from over 100 nations. The event will showcase sports, science, and culture at venues comprising the Alau Ice Palace, the Astana Arena, the Ushkempirov Martial Arts Palace (named after the Kazakhstani Greco-Roman Olympian wrestler Zhaksylyk Ushkempirov), the Qazaqstan Athletic Sports Complex, the Duman Complex, and the Kazanat Hippodrome. Beside the hippodrome’s equestrian sports complex, the Ethno-aul, or the “Nomadic Universe,” is where visitors can immerse themselves in the many nomadic yurt traditions through classes, entertainment, and cultural programs. The first official WNG began in the resort town of Cholpon-Ata in the Kyrgyz Republic in 2012. At that time, almost 600 athletes from 19 countries took part in ten sporting categories. Since then - with the second and third WNG also in Cholpon-Ata in 2016 and 2018 - and the fourth in the town of İznik in northwestern Turkey in 2022, the number of games and participants has grown exponentially. In 2016, 1,200 athletes from 62 countries took part in 26 sporting categories. In 2018, the numbers increased to 2,000 athletes from 82 countries in 37 sports. In 2022, 3,000 athletes from 102 countries took part in a limited number of games (13) held over a shorter timeframe due to restrictions enforced by the COVID-19 pandemic. September is a significant calendar month for the WNG due to the traditional nomadic migration between seasonal camps in preparation for winter. To the uninitiated, and in particular, newcomer spectators from the West, the WNG is an action-packed alternative to more conventional and established international sports. Earlier this year, UK package tours for the 2024 WNG sold out. There is a Game of Thrones fantasy element to some of the scheduled events. The venerable warrior allure of selected games that include birds of prey, dogs, horses, wrestling, archery, and agility contests, are rooted in the uncompromising landscape from which the games were born. The WNG is fairly new to the international stage, but the games themselves are not. Abiding by the rules set by the Eurasian Steppe, athletic events are often vigorous and compellingly rugged. The vast, grassy plains with their minimal natural resources are where the nomadic inhabitants learned to sustain their way of life in work and play. Thus, the WNG has been extracted, maintained, and perfected by the ancient rituals of age-old battles and challenging recreation. [caption id="attachment_20496" align="alignnone" width="1979"] Kok-Boru, 2018 World Nomad Games Image Source: Helen Owl[/caption] Horses are a vital extension of Central Asian human resourcefulness. Among the sporting category highlights, the popular Kok-Boru (also known as Buzkashi and Ulak Tyrtysh in Kyrgyz) procured from a battle training custom, will take center stage. Mere balls fade in comparison to the headless goat carcass that the equestrian participants must capture and then fling into the...

2 years ago

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