Kurchatov: Kazakhstan’s Atomic City Finds New Life After Nuclear Tests

Strong winds, scorching sun, abandoned five-story apartment blocks standing next to occupied homes, crows and horses wandering the streets: this is how Kurchatov appears to visitors today. Once closed to outsiders, the city was the heart of Soviet nuclear science and military power. More than three decades after the closure of the Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Site, how does this unique corner of Kazakhstan live now? Construction of the test site began on August 21, 1947. It covered 18,500 square kilometers at the intersection of what are now the Abai, Pavlodar, and Karaganda regions. Two years later, on August 29, 1949, the Soviet Union conducted its first nuclear test here. Soviet nuclear scientists helped create the country’s “nuclear shield,” but it was Kazakhstan that decades later brought the tests to an end. On August 29, 1991, by decree of President Nursultan Nazarbayev, the Semipalatinsk test site was officially closed. Over 42 years, at least 456 nuclear tests were carried out at the site, affecting more than 1.5 million people. The history of Kurchatov began as a military garrison. Because of its secrecy, the city changed names several times, including “Moscow-400,” “Nadezhda,” and “Bereg.” It later became known as Kurchatov, after Soviet physicist Igor Kurchatov, although for many years it remained better known by its code name: Semipalatinsk-21. The first builders and military personnel lived in extremely harsh conditions. “At first, many lived in dugouts, and the walls froze through completely,” older residents recall. “In winter, hair froze to the beds, and fingers were often frostbitten.” “I came to serve here from Moldova and thought I was going to a regional center. Instead, they sent us into the steppe, to the dugouts. No electricity, no heating, no gas. Cold, mud, wind. But I stayed anyway. I got married and later brought my parents here,” Viktor Bordei, who has lived in Kurchatov for 47 years, told The Times of Central Asia. [caption id="attachment_51250" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Viktor Bordei, a resident of Kurchatov; image: TCA[/caption] For many who served at the test site, their work felt like a matter of honor. “We didn’t think about the consequences,” Bordei admits. “We believed we were strengthening the Soviet Union’s nuclear shield. Nobody spoke about the harm until Nazarbayev announced the damage done to nature and people. Of course, it’s painful to realize we were kept in the dark.” Over time, memories of that period have become intertwined with nostalgia. Former residents recall developed infrastructure, well-stocked stores, and strict order. After the military left, Kurchatov took years to recover, losing both people and housing while preserving the spirit of its unusual past. “I remember how the walls shook during the explosions. I also remember the day the military left. It was frightening, and nobody knew what would happen next. Now it hurts to see abandoned buildings and horses wandering the streets, but I don’t want to leave. The city is changing, and I believe in it,” says local resident Elena Kazachuk, who was born in Kurchatov. Zoya Lapshina...

Tokayev Flags Nuclear Proliferation Risk in the Iran Conflict

On April 17 at the Antalya Diplomacy Forum, Kazakhstan President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev said that in the Iran conflict, the deeper issue is not freedom of navigation through the Strait of Hormuz but the spread of nuclear technologies and arms. That, he said, is the issue that should stand at the center of negotiations over the crisis Astana has long treated its anti-nuclear stance as a core state principle. Tokayev has said explicitly in the past that a nuclear-weapon-free world is a policy priority of his government. That aspiration has become part of Kazakhstan’s national identity. At Antalya, he did not produce a new line. He applied an established one to a new crisis. Kazakhstan’s sensitivity on the issue lies at Semey, formerly Semipalatinsk, in eastern Kazakhstan, where the Soviet Union built one of its principal nuclear test grounds, a site covering about 18,500 square kilometers. Between 1949 and 1989, the USSR conducted 456 nuclear tests there, including 116 atmospheric tests and 340 underground ones. The first Soviet atomic bomb was detonated there on August 29, 1949. For Kazakhstan, Semey is not only a chapter in Soviet strategic history; it is a prolonged experience of severe human and environmental exposure, environmental damage, and official secrecy borne on Kazakh territory. That record helps explain why Tokayev’s public language has, on two recent occasions, echoed Donald Trump’s. On April 8, Tokayev said that the Middle East ceasefire “was made possible through the goodwill and wisdom of U.S. President Donald Trump, Iran’s leadership, and other countries involved in the conflict,” explicitly crediting Trump’s role in making de-escalation possible. At Antalya on April 17, Tokayev said Trump had raised the UN’s dysfunction “very eloquently” at the previous September’s UN General Assembly session, adding, “I fully agree with him.” The convergence is notable. Tokayev’s emphasis on non-proliferation, restraint, and negotiated crisis management aligns with Trump’s support for the truce and his criticism of a UN-centered system that Tokayev likewise sees as increasingly unable to resolve major crises. At independence, Kazakhstan inherited 1,410 nuclear warheads deployed on Soviet strategic systems, including intercontinental missiles and heavy bombers. It acceded to the Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty in 1994 and transferred its last nuclear warhead to Russia in April 1995. This history gives Kazakhstan a place in non-proliferation diplomacy that few states can claim. It absorbed the consequences of nuclear testing and then renounced a major inherited nuclear arsenal. This history has never receded into symbolism; its human consequences endure. Populations near the test site and in downwind settlements were exposed to fallout over decades, and the medical afterlife remains an active field of research. The International Agency for Research on Cancer, part of the World Health Organization, established a prospective cohort study near the Semipalatinsk test site, known as the SEMI-NUC project, to track long-term outcomes among residents exposed to chronic low and moderate doses of radiation. Registry-based research has found that exposed populations are subject to elevated cardiovascular mortality risks, while other studies have examined thyroid disease, cancer, reproductive...