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K Krombie

Journalist and Editor

K. Krombie is a freelance journalist and the author of two history books. Death in New York (published in 2021), which explores death in the Big Apple from experiments in embalming to capital punishment, to the vagaries of the mortuary business, and The Psychiatric History of New York (scheduled for publication in 2025). Krombie also owns a tour company called Purefinder New York, which focuses on NYC behind the scenes.

Articles

World Nomad Games Traditions Culture

A Yurt Full of Culture: Immersive Theater Meets Nomadic Traditions at the World Nomad Games

In and amongst the many yurts at the 2024 World Nomad Games Ethnoaul (Ethnic Village), the inhabitants of one particular yurt — not only delight and surprise passersby with boisterous renditions of Kazakh music, dance, and comical stage combat — but they energetically beckon people inside to experience the traditional familial rituals of a nomadic Kazakh marriage proposal. Guests are seated on the floor while segments of the ritual are played out and translated into English by the host, Ernur. The experience is immersive to the point where some of the observers from far-off regions were overheard congratulating the bride-to-be on her upcoming nuptials. Inside the yurt, Ernur set the scene by pointing out the players, among them, the fathers of the future bride and groom, the future bride, her future mother-in-law, and a strumming dombra player. After the union was established, the mother-in-law bestowed her daughter-to-be with gifts of jewelry. As the dombra rhythm accelerated, the fathers-in-law embraced, and the two families exchanged gifts of — in this instance — fur-collared cloaks. The wedding, Ernur explained, would occur in March, the month of the traditional Central Asian New Year (Nauryz). Upward-facing palms aided declarations of goodwill and thankfulness, followed by more music, merriment, and horse-related appetizers. A sense of genuine formality and inclusive pomp was fully realized in under ten minutes. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-13-at-12.10.55.mp4"][/video] The Mukanov Theater, named after Kazakh Soviet writer and poet Sabit Mukanov, is based in Petropavl, approximately 300 miles north of Astana near the border with Russia. Ernur, the aforementioned host and cast member, has been acting with the twenty-one-year-old Mukanov Theater for a year. Back in Petropavl, the company, which has a 200-seat theater building, performs traditional Kazakh plays, modern plays, and Shakespeare, which Ernur described as “so difficult for us!” 2024 marks the first year that they have performed at the WNG with their debut marriage proposal ceremony. Additionally, the theater company has enacted different nomadic traditions in other yurts around Kazakhstan. Ernur, who said he’d enjoyed his time in Astana, added that the Mukanov Theater was “proud that the World Nomad Games are here [in Kazakhstan].” [caption id="attachment_23140" align="aligncenter" width="720"] Left to right: Brandon, Albert and Jan at the World Nomad Games; image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] Three Western traveling companions, who met each other only recently on the backpacker trail of Central Asia, were ushered into the Mukanov Theater yurt. They each provided reviews of the immersive theater experience, and also, their individual opinions regarding the wider connotations of the performance, proportionate to Kazakhstan’s post-Soviet cultural heritage. Brandon, an American from San Francisco, has been traveling the world for nine months and thought it would be “really funny” to come to the Stans for a couple of months. “I was in Turkey, and I was like, you know what, where's the weirdest place I can think of to go to that's not too far from where I am right now? Who's ever been to Uzbekistan, right? Kazakhstan is my last stop...

2 months ago

World Nomad Games

Celebrating Female Pioneers at the 2024 World Nomad Games

Like most dominating worldwide sports, the World Nomad Games are top-heavy with male athletes. Yet while women don’t participate in all the categories, in the 2024 WNG, a noteworthy number of them have become the center of attention. Among the packed crowds of the Hippodrome and Ethnoaul venues, one competitor and two ticket holders had a few things to say on the matter of WNG women. Timea Janurik, known as Timi, is a folk musician and a PhD student in folk teaching methods, from Budapest, Hungary. She is competing as a player of the citera, the national stringed instrument of Hungary, at the Ethnoaul. The Hungarian representation at the WNG includes three men and three women, but Timi, who specializes in Turkic folk songs, is the only musician among them. While rehearsing in Astana, Timi chanced upon a Kazakh girl singer and asked her, “Do you want to join me in the concert?” Hence, a female alliance and a makeshift band were formed because Timi only knew how to sing one song in the Kazakh language. According to Timi, her new partner “can sing beautifully.” In Timi’s native Hungary, folk musicianship is an art form split evenly among men and women, but citera playing is dominated by women (and violin playing by men). [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-12-at-00.21.19.mp4"][/video] Timi is also participating in the female Assyk games, a type of traditional Kazakh board game in which players use small animal bones — assyks — to knock out multiple lines of their opponent’s assyks. The game rules differ according to gender. The male version of the game “is more popular,” says Timi, “because it’s more visible and looks so fancy to play.” [caption id="attachment_23070" align="aligncenter" width="1577"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] British visitors Naomi Ocean and Andy Myer (an archer), from Wales and Devon, respectively, came all the way from the UK to Astana to watch the horseback archery. Even though they are well-traveled in other regions of Central Asia, this is their first visit to Kazakhstan and the WNG. They remarked that they hadn’t noticed the UK team participating in anything they have witnessed thus far, but what they have seen has been “interesting and exciting.” Having just seen the Turkey team being “trashed in the kok boru,” they were happy to see Turkey’s subsequent victory in the Traditional Turkish Archery, in particular the female team member who performed victory laps before an exhilarated, mostly Kazakh crowd. “We were glad,” said Naomi, “and we loved seeing the female archers.” Naomi was equally, if not more impressed by the “mixed teams” in the horseback archery category. Having watched and enjoyed the 2016 Kazakh language documentary film, The Eagle Huntress, Naomi and Andy look forward to the Kusbegilik games. “We’re expecting to see women handling eagles, which should be good.” [caption id="attachment_23071" align="aligncenter" width="2000"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] A Turkish team victor, competing in Traditional Turkish Archery (mixed gender team), and an Uzbek athlete in horseback archery (with no specific male and female categories)...

2 months ago

World Nomad Games

Kazakhstan’s Rich Cultural Heritage: Thirteen Elements in One Yurt

Nestled among the yurts of the 2024 World Nomad Games Ethnoaul (Ethnic Village), one yurt in particular provided a promotional VIP space for the distinguished Russophone poet, politician, UNESCO ambassador, International Democratic Party Chairman of the People’s Congress of Kazakhstan, and anti-nuclear activist Olzhas Suleimenov. A hushed silence spread inside the circumference of the AZ i YA (a Russian play on the word “Asia”) yurt, named in honor of Suleimenov’s 1975 book about the conceivable Turkic origin of the epic Old East Slavic poem The Tale of Igor's Campaign. Bystanders were ushered out when the Almaty-born Suleimenov arrived. The aforementioned book caused controversy when it was released in the Soviet era and was almost banned when Suleimenov was accused of “national chauvinism” and “glorifying feudal nomadic culture.” By contrast, the purpose of the AZ i YA yurt is to educate the unenlightened and celebrate the thirteen elements of “Kazakhstan's Rich Cultural Heritage.” Those thirteen elements, as explained by the yurt’s translator and self-proclaimed “young scientist” Dana Tursynova, include Aitysh, a spoken word poetry contest with dueling dombra (two-string instrument), or the Kyrgyz komuz (two or three strings), in which two protagonists improvise on the topics of opposing ideas, retorts, and general frustrations. Tursynova described it as “conveying political problems” and “the sound of a nation [aimed at] the government.” At a neighboring yurt, Aitysh—delivered with gravelly belligerence—was audibly comparable with a modern battle rap. Another element is Nasreddin Hodja, a 13th-century folklore storyteller who—similar to the Aitysh tradition—used humor to air political grievances and other types of narrative. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-10-at-23.43.20.mp4"][/video] A further element is Korkyt-Ata (translated from Kazakh as “granddad”), a 9th-century philosopher, who, in his pursuit of immortality discovered that death was always waiting for him. As he gained enlightenment, he somehow had enough free time to craft the kobyz, an ancient Turkic stringed instrument. Thus, he is known as the founder of Kazakh string and bow instruments. The yurt, the round portable homes of the nomads, is an element, as is orteke, where the dombra musician surpasses the average one-man-band status by operating moving wooden puppets connected to his fingers via the strings to convey multi-task theater. The sports elements comprise kazakhsha kures, traditional Kazakh wrestling, which in recent times has traded the long-established grass turf for a mod con carpet, board-type games, such as Assyk, designed to sharpen the intellectual and physical development of children, and Kusbegilik, or hunting with birds of prey, a Kazakh cultural heritage as well as a major sport in the WNG. Edible elements combine katyrma flatbread, an important part of Kazakhstan’s communal relations in the interchange of goodwill (e.g. “have a good life”) when sharing the bread, and horse breeder festivities, where kumis, fermented horse milk, is the culinary highlight. The main heading of the yurt’s pamphlet handout is the substantially worded International Centre for the Rapprochement of Cultures Under the Auspices of UNESCO. In one small yurt (on one big steppe), the cultural round-up of folklore, tradition, and...

2 months ago

Astana World Nomad Games

Galloping Traditions: Kokpar and Kok Boru Unleash Cultural Pride at the World Nomad Games

The Kazanat Hippodrome, with a track length of 1,800 meters, and the Astana Grand Mosque — the biggest mosque in Central Asia — dominating the background, hosted the preliminary kokpar and kok boru games, known for their respective pursuits of a headless goat carcass, on day two of the World Nomad Games. [caption id="attachment_22919" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] The layout of the Hippodrome track presents a great divide. The distance between the field and the spectators means that distinguishing the traditional headless goat carcass from the PC dummy version (serke) of the Games is an eye-squinting challenge if one doesn't engage with the obligatory big screen. The two games, which appear to be very similar if not identical, are separated by cultural nomadic origins. Kokpar is Kazakh, while kok boru is from Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz origins of kok boru (gray wolf) are rooted in an ancient post-wolf hunting tradition, where the carcass of the animal would be passed around — as in taken — among the hunters as a sporting activity while riding back to their village. [video width="848" height="478" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/WhatsApp-Video-2024-09-09-at-22.33.14.mp4"][/video] To the unacquainted spectator, kok boru (and kokpar) is where various other sports — equestrianism, polo, hockey, and football — merge in a rugged horseback chase and scrum. The aim of the game is to steer the goat carcass into the donut-shaped tai kazan — or goal — of the opposing team. Each team has twelve horses and players, while four players from each team play for three 20-minute spurts with 10-minute breaks in between. In those 20-minute periods, not a single minute is wasted. [caption id="attachment_22921" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] In the kok boru games, following Turkey’s 1 - 0 win with Hungary, the mostly home crowd reserved their audible enthusiasm for Kazakhstan versus the United States in a literal East versus West match (U.S. team player and MMA fighter Nick Willert is also a competitor in horseback wrestling at the neighboring Ethnoaul). Much fanfare accompanied a parade of marching, flag-waving Kazakhs ahead of the game. From the off, the Kazakhs wiped the sandy floor with the American Cowboys. Almost every member of the Kazakh team scored points in quick succession, following taut human/horse throngs in the final stages of maneuvering the serke into the tai kazan. A general impression of the U.S. team was that they accepted their defeat with grace and humor, and were happy to be where they were. The same sentiment appeared to be shared by the Kazakh spectators, who are proud that these Central Asian games are gaining recognition on the international stage. [caption id="attachment_22922" align="aligncenter" width="739"] Image: TCA, K. Krombie[/caption] In the 2024 WNG, representation from the West is a growing trend for both the participants and the observers. American spectator Lisa Wagner, who was present at the kok boru games with friends and family specifically to support her fellow countrymen remarked that the Kyrgyzstan spectators in her midst were just as enthusiastic for the American team. Wagner...

2 months ago