Cultural Heritage - The Times Of Central Asia

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History

Henry Wallace’s Journey to Central Asia and Its Connection to Kazakhstan

Central Asia has long held significance for the Western world — both in the past century and today. The region is home to ancient peoples and rich indigenous traditions. As a journalist from Kazakhstan, I became curious about the cultural ties between the United States and my country. In 2023, I studied at George Washington University through the Bolashak scholarship program to explore this subject in depth. My research led me to numerous works written by American travelers and scholars. Among them, I discovered a book authored by former U.S. Vice President Henry Wallace, based on his journey to Central Asia. [caption id="attachment_35215" align="aligncenter" width="351"] Henry WallaceCredit Hudson Institute[/caption] His book, Soviet Asia Mission, was published in New York in 1946 and reflects observations from that trip. During this special mission in 1944, Wallace first traveled through Siberia, where he studied the conditions of the local population, before continuing on to the Kazakh steppe. Wallace describes the social and political realities of Kazakhstan under Soviet rule, as well as the industrial projects that caught his attention. As a senior American politician, he was particularly interested in production and agriculture. “Down to meet us at the airfield was the director, Georg Georgevich Spitsen. In motorcars, we drove at once to the largest of Karaganda's three big open-pit coal mines. With a sweeping gesture, Spitsen said: “We are digging 6,000 tons of coal a day here. Production began a year ago." A proud shovel operator, scooping up tons of run-of-mine coal to load into steel hopper cars, waved to us. The tracks were driven directly into the cut. We looked closely at the shovel's trademark. It was a Bucyrus Erie electric shovel, one of three at work here, and had been shipped in under lend-lease from the United States.” His journey to Kazakhstan in the previous century demonstrates that U.S.–Kazakh political contacts began earlier than is often assumed.. Although Kazakhstan’s place in the Soviet system was highly constrained, Wallace’s account provides valuable insight into the wartime Soviet republics.. “After lunch at Karaganda, we took off, flying southwest over very dry country. Even the streams were dried out, except in deep valleys where clusters of huts could be seen in the midst of green oases. When still a long distance away, we could see a wide expanse of water ahead. It was Lake Balkhash, bright blue in the midst of gray, treeless country. Along the shore rose the smoking stacks of smelters. On landing at the dirt airfield, we were welcomed to the copper-smelting town of Balkhash by its mayor, Anna Stepanovna Piribinus, president of the city Soviet.” His next stop was Semipalatinsk (today’s Semey). There Wallace spoke with Dimitri Chuvakhin of the Soviet Foreign Office, who accompanied him on the trip. “This kind of thing,” he said, referring to the new towns we had seen, “this kind of thing saved Russia. Trotsky was against it; he thought there had to be a world revolution. Stalin had faith in the moral stamina of...

History

How Did Kazakh Poet Abai Qunanbaiuly`s Name Reach the U.S.?

Kazakh literature is filled with towering figures who have shaped the nation’s cultural and spiritual identity. Among them, Abai Qunanbaiuly (1845–1904) remains the most iconic. A poet, philosopher, and intellectual of global stature, Abai left behind a legacy that continues to resonate within world literature. As Kazakhstan celebrates the 180th anniversary of his birth, it is a fitting moment to explore how his influence extended far beyond the steppe, reaching as far as the United States. George Kennan: The American Who Introduced Abai to the World In 1885, American journalist George Kennan visited Semey (then Semipalatinsk) and was deeply impressed by the city’s public library. To his surprise, local Kazakhs actively borrowed and read books, a rare sight for that time and region. In his influential work Siberia and the Exile System, Kennan specifically mentioned Abai, marking one of the earliest references to the Kazakh thinker in Western literature. Kennan’s account stands out for its authenticity. It is based not on secondhand stories but on direct observation. His writings confirm Abai’s presence in Semey’s intellectual life and suggest that the poet had begun to attract attention well beyond the Kazakh steppe. [caption id="attachment_34625" align="alignnone" width="232"] Credit «Siberia and the Exile System», by George Kennan[/caption] From Kennan’s descriptions, we gain insight into what Abai read, who his associates were, and how his worldview aligned with major thinkers of the time. Abai’s intellectual growth was greatly influenced by E. P. Mikhaelis, a Russian political exile and lifelong friend. Under Mikhaelis’s guidance, Abai refined his reading habits and began a new phase of self-education. Through Mikhaelis, he was introduced to other exiled Russian intellectuals such as S. S. Gross, A. A. Leontiev, and N. I. Dolgopolov. These thinkers were struck by Abai’s intellectual depth, civic engagement, and dedication to the betterment of his people. In return, Abai introduced them to Kazakh culture, history, and oral traditions, becoming a cultural bridge between East and West. [caption id="attachment_34627" align="alignnone" width="300"] Аbai and E.P. Mikhaelis[/caption] Kennan also described the library in Semey, where Abai was a frequent visitor and reader. Since the original excerpt is in English, it is often shared as an image in historical archives rather than a transcription. [caption id="attachment_34628" align="alignnone" width="201"] Credit «Siberia and the Exile System», by George Kennan[/caption] [caption id="attachment_34629" align="alignnone" width="300"] The exterior appearance of the library in Semey where Abai was a reader[/caption] Abai’s Songs and Wesleyan University Abai’s influence extended not only through literature but also through music. In 1970, Wesleyan University Press in Connecticut published Music of Central Asia: Essays on the History of Music of the Peoples of the USSR, a groundbreaking volume by V. Belyaev and other scholars. The book includes a chapter titled Kazakh Music: From the 15th Century to the Mid-18th Century, which devotes special attention to Abai’s musical legacy. Belyaev describes Abai as a progressive thinker and a voice for enlightenment, quoting one of his famous verses: "Song opens the doors of the world to you, Song opens the death to...

UNESCO World Heritage List

Timur’s Birthplace Languishes on UNESCO List of Endangered Sites

Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva. Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage draws visitors from around the world, but the troubled modern history of another ancient site, Shakhrisabz, is a reminder that development and mass tourism sometimes overshadow preservation. Shakhrisabz, or Green City, is less known than some other tourist destinations in Uzbekistan that were part of the Silk Road network linking cultures across Asia, Europe, and Africa many centuries ago. Yet the old urban core is more than 2,000 years old and contains spectacular monuments and other structures, some dating from the heyday of the city during the rule of the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur, also known as Tamerlane, and the Timurids in medieval times. [caption id="attachment_34196" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Timur Statue; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] UNESCO declared it a world heritage site in 2000. But the historical center of Shakhrisabz, previously called Kesh, was placed on the U.N. cultural agency´s list of world heritage sites in danger in 2016 after large sections were razed to make way for a park and tourist facilities. It has stayed on the danger list ever since as officials in Uzbekistan, assisted by international advisers, try to figure out a way to prevent it from losing its United Nations status altogether. A total of 53 locations around the world are on UNESCO’s danger list. [caption id="attachment_34197" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] The Fayzullah Ravnakhi Museum B&B, one of many buildings demolished to make way for tourist facilities; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] A solution in Uzbekistan’s case appears to be in the works. At a meeting in Paris this month, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee tentatively approved an Uzbek proposal that would restore Shakhrisabz in southern Uzbekistan to the regular heritage list but in reduced form – only four key Timurid monuments would be included, while the rest of the historical center would be labeled as a buffer zone. “The main focus is expected to shift from the concept of a ´complete historic city´ to the conservation of the ensemble of monuments, including the Ak-Saray Palace, while preserving their urban context,” reported Gazeta.uz, a media organization in Uzbekistan. [caption id="attachment_34198" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Ak-Saray Palace; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] Uzbekistan must conduct archaeological studies, prepare a restoration plan, and take other measures in order for the proposal to succeed, according to Gazeta.uz. Uzbekistan must update UNESCO on its progress in February 2026, and the process could still take several years. Construction of the Ak-Saray Palace began in 1380 after a military victory by Timur, who was born in the city, according to UNESCO. The agency said that not one of the many Timurid monuments in Samarkand, north of Shakhrisabz, can rival the Ak-Saray Palace. “The foundations of its immense gate have been preserved: this architectural masterpiece is outstanding in its dimensions and bold design,” UNESCO said. While Shakhrisabz has less tourist infrastructure than nearby Samarkand, there are efforts to raise its profile. Last year, the Economic Cooperation Organization, whose ten members include Central Asian countries, declared it the tourism capital for 2024. Uzbekistan’s other cultural sites have also faced...

Cultural Heritage

Opinion: Off the Grid in Uzbekistan – A Journey to Sarchashma’s Living Heritage

The Uzbek government’s tourism campaign is aiming to attract visitors to the ancient cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. These places, embodying Central Asia’s rich shared Persian and Turkic heritage, have been given extensive infrastructural and hospitality investments. Today, a stroll through Samarkand features a display of its luxury hotels and brick-paved shopping alleys boasting assortments of vintage ware and mass-produced souvenirs. Bukhara, also transformed by upgrades and restorations, is now host to the trendy Biennial, marketing the city as a new hub for ‘creatives, thinkers and visitors from all over the world’, in line with its legacy as the historical intellectual center of Central Asia. Finally, Khiva’s clay walls have been leveraged to turn the Itchan Kala into an attraction-cum-shopping-town where its distinct floral ornamentation is eclipsed by the fluorescent parade of cheap goods along and around historic monuments. While tourists who limit themselves to this triad will no doubt find heritage between the cracks of the consumerist-package wrapping, they risk missing out on the stuff that makes Central Asia so lovable – its people, nature, and quiet reverence for culture. That is why, for the more adventurous travelers, I recommend going off-piste, deep into the Gilon Valley two hours east of Shahrisabz: to the green little Tajik village of Sarchashma. [caption id="attachment_34153" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Image: Madina Gazieva[/caption] The picturesque way leading to Sarchashma starts at the Hisorak hydroelectric dam, 30km east of Shakhrisabz, itself a site of historic importance as the birthplace of the famous conqueror Amir Temur. Lasting approximately an hour and a half, the drive from Hisorak to Sarchashma feels like something out of a Kiarostami film: a winding earthen road, towered by the foothills of the Hissor mountain range, bordered by the azure Aksu River that culminates in the Hisorak reserve downstream. One can pause on top of the dam, or at any point, to appreciate the dramatic landscape created by the serpentine Aksu, interrupted by mountains rising from the valley floor. Closer to Sarchashma, two prominent, rounded, equilateral mountains emerge upstream of the river; this is where Sarchashma is cozily nestled amid a sprawling green patch of poplar and walnut trees. As the village’s elders explain, the settlement used to be called ‘Kizilimchak’, denoting ‘red-chested girl’ – the locals’ way of honoring the eminence of their topography. [caption id="attachment_34154" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Sarchashma Museum; image: Madina Gazieva[/caption] A cultural legacy, unadulterated nature, and welcoming people are what make Sarchashma worth visiting. The village is host to a small but packed museum, comprising three rooms in an old mosque, founded by Kundal artist and schoolteacher Aki Furqat. Furqat, who speaks Russian, spent years collecting scattered archaeological items such as pottery, sewing and farming tools found near what the inhabitants say was an ancient settlement called ‘Ochtepa’, now farmland, a few kilometers from Sarchashma. While formal excavations have yet to be carried out, the temporal range of artefacts points to a rich legacy: more recent items include Persian philosophical texts, Soviet-era photographs, and contemporary books written by local...

Kazakh writer

How The New York Times Came to Publish an Obituary for Kazakh writer Mukhtar Auezov

While browsing old issues of The New York Times, we wondered: “Is there anything here about the Kazakhs or Kazakhstan?” One edition stood out, the June 28, 1961 issue. On page 35, alongside obituaries for several prominent figures, was one for our great writer, Mukhtar Auezov. [caption id="attachment_33412" align="aligncenter" width="378"] “Winner of Lenin Prize in 1959 for 2-Volume Work Dies Mukhtar O. Auezov, the Kazakh poet and philosopher whose two-novel work, ‘Abai’ and ‘The Road of Abai,’ earned a Lenin Prize two years ago, died yesterday in Alma-Ata.”[/caption] The article went on to note that Mukhtar Auezov was born and raised in the Shyngystau region (known today as the Abai District), and later wrote a major work about the life of Abai. It also mentioned that he studied at Leningrad University and authored numerous literary works. In 1960, Auezov visited several U.S. states as part of a Soviet writers’ delegation. Upon returning home, he expressed in interviews his admiration for the towering skyscrapers of New York City. What pleased us even more was that The New York Times included a photograph of Auezov alongside the obituary. This shows that even in the 1960s, American literary circles recognized and took notice of a Kazakh writer. In other words, Auezov left a lasting impression on the American public. Other articles about him may have appeared in the U.S. press, but so far this obituary is the only one we have been able to find. Mukhtar Omarkhanuli Auezov holds the distinction of being the first known Kazakh writer to set foot on American soil. His official visit was well covered by the U.S. press and known to the American public at the time. This likely explains why such a major publication honored him with a dedicated obituary, informing readers around the world of his passing. The gesture reflects a significant level of respect and recognition. Mukhtar Auezov indeed visited the United States from February 17 to March 17, 1960, as part of a delegation of Soviet writers. This trip was part of the “Agreement Between the United States of America and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics on Exchanges in the Cultural, Technical, and Educational Fields.” According to the agreement, four American writers visited the USSR in 1959, and in return, a Soviet delegation traveled to the U.S. in February/March 1960. To give readers a closer look at his journey, we are sharing excerpts from Mukhtar Auezov’s diary, where he reflects on the trip. The entries were later published in a bilingual edition, Mukhtar Auezov: Impressions of America, in 2021, in both Kazakh and English. Below are a few details from Auezov’s impressions of the U.S.: That day we toured Washington, D.C. It’s a very beautiful city. No two houses look alike. Even the cars are all different, though there are many, they never repeat. We visited the old part of the city, the area known as ‘Georgetown.’ All the houses here are old, yet highly stylish, elegant two-story homes. There is one...

History

A British Scholar’s Glimpse into Kazakh Life a Century Ago

A century ago, in 1925, British historian, writer, and revolutionary Ralph Fox published People of the Steppes, a compelling account of his travels offering rare insights into the life and culture of the Kazakh people. Fox (1900–1936) was no ordinary observer. A journalist, Marxist, and author of biographies on Lenin and Genghis Khan, he traveled through Soviet Central Asia in the early 1920s and spent his final years working at the Marx-Engels Institute in Moscow, where he wrote his last major tome. In the foreword to People of the Steppes, Fox states that his aim was not political propaganda but to record what he had witnessed. His observations, written as he journeyed through the steppe from the Orenburg region to the Aral Sea, provide a vivid portrait of nomadic life. As the train carried him across Turkestan, Fox was struck by the sights outside his window: “For the first time I see, through the train windows, the round black tents of the nomads, shaped like broad beehives, and I whisper to myself that under just such a tent was Chingiz Khan born… Sometimes there passes a family on the march, the elders and children perched above their household goods on the beautiful shaggy Bactrian camels, the youths on horseback, small, sturdy ponies. It is all strange to me and I feel a beauty of slowness and order in their movements, the eternal rhythm of a wandering shepherd's life.” Fox shortly visited a nomadic camp, recording his impressions in the sub-section “The Tents of the Kazakhs”. “We sat on some empty crates and watched the hens scutter across the floor," he wrote, "while his wife, a quiet, kindly woman, brought us a bowl of Kummis (Mare’s milk) to drink." The hospitality of the Kazakhs left a lasting impression: “ They roused me when the meal was ready. ‘The Kazaks, men and women, sat round the pot in the dim tent, for smoke filled all the upper part now, and the sun had set. Brown arms were thrust into the mess, or painted wooden spoons, while we dainty whites were given wooden bowls. ‘The meat was tough and greasy, and to me only the little cakes of dough were palatable, though they were gritty with sand, so I did not eat much… It was all fantastic around that evil-smelling fire.” The next day, Fox encountered a group of Lesser Horde Kazakhs migrating from Siberia along the Syr Darya River. He noted that some had already settled in Torgai, while others aimed to reach the Urals. “ Once there, they would willingly sell off their surplus stock to buy their necessities on the bazaars to last them through the following year, at Kazalinsk, at Jussali, at Perovsk and ‘Turkestan, the great bazaars of the Syr Daria.” Fox also explored the broader historical and cultural context of the Kazakhs, noting that their nomadic lifestyle limited the development of written literature but fostered rich oral traditions and epic poetry: “It is hard to unravel their...