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“Recipes for Broken Hearts”: Bukhara Launches First Art Biennale

This autumn, the ancient Silk Road city of Bukhara is poised to reemerge as a global cultural destination, hosting its first-ever international art biennale, Recipes for Broken Hearts. Running from September 5 to November 20, the ten-week festival will transform Bukhara, a UNESCO Creative City, into a vibrant arena for contemporary art, community rituals, and culinary experiences. The initiative is spearheaded by Gayane Umerova, chair of the Uzbekistan Arts and Culture Development Foundation (ACDF), with renowned curator Diana Campbell at the helm. More than 70 new works, created in Uzbekistan, will be displayed in historic madrasas and caravanserais, reimagined as immersive exhibition spaces. The event promises to be among the region’s largest cultural gatherings, aiming to reclaim Bukhara’s place on the global cultural map. Not Just an Exhibition, A Sensory Ritual Recipes for Broken Hearts is not a traditional exhibition. Designed as a “ritual for the senses,” it invites audiences to engage with art not just visually but through touch, scent, sound, and taste. Sculptures, textiles, music, and food converge into an experimental space for “emotional healing.” Visitors become participants rather than spectators. At the opening ceremony, instead of a red carpet, guests will be welcomed by the scent of fermentation. Korean Buddhist nun and chef Jeon Kwan will prepare kimchi, place it in a clay pot, and bury it. Ten weeks later, the fermented dish will be unearthed and shared with the public, symbolizing transformation and healing through time. A Dialogue Between Cultures The biennale’s installations span a wide geographic and cultural range. Egyptian-American artist Laila Gohar will craft navata, a crystal made from grape juice and saffron. Colombian artist Delcy Morelos will construct a dome of clay, sand, and spices to symbolize human connection to the earth. Uzbek artist Oizhon Khairullaeva and ceramist Abdurauf Tahirov will create “organs of the city,” including a beating ceramic heart and a “stomach” integrated into historic architecture. Indian sculptor Subodh Gupta will build a giant dome from enamel teapots and bowls, shaped like a yurt, where guests will be served fusion cuisine. Central to the project is the in situ approach: every piece is created in Bukhara with the support of local artisans, potters, weavers, and carpet makers, infusing contemporary works with traditional skills. “This isn’t an art fair,” explained the curators. “Each piece speaks from this land, even if the whole world sees it.” [caption id="attachment_21936" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] The Kalon Mosque, Bukhara; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] Bukhara as a Living Gallery Festival venues are dispersed throughout Bukhara’s historic core, effectively turning the city into an open-air gallery. Four restored caravanserais symbolize the emotional journey from grief to hope. The 16th-century Gavkushon madrasa, repurposed as the “House of Softness,” will host workshops, public readings, and a symposium titled The Craft of Mending. There, artists and scholars will explore the “culture of repair”, from object restoration to the preservation of historical memory. “Erasing history is also a form of pain. Restoration is resistance to oblivion,” notes Harvard-based art historian Aziza Izamova. Concurrently,...

Bold Pavilions, Big Statements: Central Asia at Osaka Expo 2025

On a sweltering August day, The Times of Central Asia arrived at the Osaka Expo 2025. The theme, "Designing Future Society for Our Lives," set the stage for a carnival of new ideas and technology. Pavilions buzzed with invention, each one a world of its own. Central Asia turned heads - with all five countries represented - with vibrant stalls, bustling booths, and grand castle-like showpieces that drew crowds from every corner. [caption id="attachment_35420" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Kazakhstan Pavilion; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] Kazakhstan’s pavilion presents the theme “Born Bold” in the “Connecting Lives” zone, alongside South Korea, Germany, Luxembourg, Nepal, Azerbaijan, Iran, Monaco, and Türkiye. At its heart rises the shanyrak, the sacred crown of the yurt, once a symbol of roots and now a beacon of unity, mirroring the Expo’s spirit of innovation and shared horizons. The story begins with the essence of the Kazakh people. Generations, history, culture, and traditions unfold from the Kazakh Khanate and the vast steppe to Abai’s poetry and the nation’s sporting heroes. It is a narrative of memory and strength, where the past is not closed, but carried forward as a living value. [video width="1280" height="720" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/KZ1-REMOVE-AUDIO-Videobolt.net_.mp4"][/video] From history, the focus shifts to unity. Every guest becomes part of the experience as their face is woven into a digital mosaic, a vivid symbol of belonging. Interactive technologies present Kazakhstan as a country where diversity does not divide but connects. From past to present, the spotlight then falls on a Kazakhstan that is inventive and future-ready. Visitors explore the country’s energy transition, green initiatives, digitalization, and work in artificial intelligence, alongside its rise as an investment hub. [caption id="attachment_35413" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Prolonging life - ALEM at the EXPO; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] The final chapter places pride and place on the groundbreaking ALEM (Astana Life Ex-situ Machine) developed by Kazakh scientists. Created by the Heart Center Foundation, it is already redefining the possibilities of transplantation. The window for organ transplants is short, from just a few hours for a heart or lungs to more than a day for a kidney. ALEM changes the game. By replicating the body’s internal conditions, it can keep a donor heart alive for 24 hours, opening new possibilities. Only a few models currently exist, including the one on display in the pavilion. [caption id="attachment_35414" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] The Turkmenistan Pavilion; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] The Turkmenistan Pavilion dazzles with three lavish floors beneath an iconic, rounded-triangular ceiling that symbolizes circulation, sustainability, and the flow of life. On the ground level, an epic immersive video left the Japanese audience gasping as it honored Turkmenistan’s great men, legendary horses, and loyal dogs, while women appeared only in fleeting roles. [video width="1280" height="720" mp4="https://timesca.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/TK1.mp4"][/video] The second-floor shifts to the present, celebrating modern achievements, from the smart city of Arkadag to advances in industry, finance, and science. The space unfolds as an eclectic mix of books, jewelry, rugs, and even everyday objects like bottles of oil. At its center, a glowing...

History

Henry Wallace’s Journey to Central Asia and Its Connection to Kazakhstan

Central Asia has long held significance for the Western world — both in the past century and today. The region is home to ancient peoples and rich indigenous traditions. As a journalist from Kazakhstan, I became curious about the cultural ties between the United States and my country. In 2023, I studied at George Washington University through the Bolashak scholarship program to explore this subject in depth. My research led me to numerous works written by American travelers and scholars. Among them, I discovered a book authored by former U.S. Vice President Henry Wallace, based on his journey to Central Asia. [caption id="attachment_35215" align="aligncenter" width="351"] Henry WallaceCredit Hudson Institute[/caption] His book, Soviet Asia Mission, was published in New York in 1946 and reflects observations from that trip. During this special mission in 1944, Wallace first traveled through Siberia, where he studied the conditions of the local population, before continuing on to the Kazakh steppe. Wallace describes the social and political realities of Kazakhstan under Soviet rule, as well as the industrial projects that caught his attention. As a senior American politician, he was particularly interested in production and agriculture. “Down to meet us at the airfield was the director, Georg Georgevich Spitsen. In motorcars, we drove at once to the largest of Karaganda's three big open-pit coal mines. With a sweeping gesture, Spitsen said: “We are digging 6,000 tons of coal a day here. Production began a year ago." A proud shovel operator, scooping up tons of run-of-mine coal to load into steel hopper cars, waved to us. The tracks were driven directly into the cut. We looked closely at the shovel's trademark. It was a Bucyrus Erie electric shovel, one of three at work here, and had been shipped in under lend-lease from the United States.” His journey to Kazakhstan in the previous century demonstrates that U.S.–Kazakh political contacts began earlier than is often assumed.. Although Kazakhstan’s place in the Soviet system was highly constrained, Wallace’s account provides valuable insight into the wartime Soviet republics.. “After lunch at Karaganda, we took off, flying southwest over very dry country. Even the streams were dried out, except in deep valleys where clusters of huts could be seen in the midst of green oases. When still a long distance away, we could see a wide expanse of water ahead. It was Lake Balkhash, bright blue in the midst of gray, treeless country. Along the shore rose the smoking stacks of smelters. On landing at the dirt airfield, we were welcomed to the copper-smelting town of Balkhash by its mayor, Anna Stepanovna Piribinus, president of the city Soviet.” His next stop was Semipalatinsk (today’s Semey). There Wallace spoke with Dimitri Chuvakhin of the Soviet Foreign Office, who accompanied him on the trip. “This kind of thing,” he said, referring to the new towns we had seen, “this kind of thing saved Russia. Trotsky was against it; he thought there had to be a world revolution. Stalin had faith in the moral stamina of...

History

How Did Kazakh Poet Abai Qunanbaiuly`s Name Reach the U.S.?

Kazakh literature is filled with towering figures who have shaped the nation’s cultural and spiritual identity. Among them, Abai Qunanbaiuly (1845–1904) remains the most iconic. A poet, philosopher, and intellectual of global stature, Abai left behind a legacy that continues to resonate within world literature. As Kazakhstan celebrates the 180th anniversary of his birth, it is a fitting moment to explore how his influence extended far beyond the steppe, reaching as far as the United States. George Kennan: The American Who Introduced Abai to the World In 1885, American journalist George Kennan visited Semey (then Semipalatinsk) and was deeply impressed by the city’s public library. To his surprise, local Kazakhs actively borrowed and read books, a rare sight for that time and region. In his influential work Siberia and the Exile System, Kennan specifically mentioned Abai, marking one of the earliest references to the Kazakh thinker in Western literature. Kennan’s account stands out for its authenticity. It is based not on secondhand stories but on direct observation. His writings confirm Abai’s presence in Semey’s intellectual life and suggest that the poet had begun to attract attention well beyond the Kazakh steppe. [caption id="attachment_34625" align="alignnone" width="232"] Credit «Siberia and the Exile System», by George Kennan[/caption] From Kennan’s descriptions, we gain insight into what Abai read, who his associates were, and how his worldview aligned with major thinkers of the time. Abai’s intellectual growth was greatly influenced by E. P. Mikhaelis, a Russian political exile and lifelong friend. Under Mikhaelis’s guidance, Abai refined his reading habits and began a new phase of self-education. Through Mikhaelis, he was introduced to other exiled Russian intellectuals such as S. S. Gross, A. A. Leontiev, and N. I. Dolgopolov. These thinkers were struck by Abai’s intellectual depth, civic engagement, and dedication to the betterment of his people. In return, Abai introduced them to Kazakh culture, history, and oral traditions, becoming a cultural bridge between East and West. [caption id="attachment_34627" align="alignnone" width="300"] Аbai and E.P. Mikhaelis[/caption] Kennan also described the library in Semey, where Abai was a frequent visitor and reader. Since the original excerpt is in English, it is often shared as an image in historical archives rather than a transcription. [caption id="attachment_34628" align="alignnone" width="201"] Credit «Siberia and the Exile System», by George Kennan[/caption] [caption id="attachment_34629" align="alignnone" width="300"] The exterior appearance of the library in Semey where Abai was a reader[/caption] Abai’s Songs and Wesleyan University Abai’s influence extended not only through literature but also through music. In 1970, Wesleyan University Press in Connecticut published Music of Central Asia: Essays on the History of Music of the Peoples of the USSR, a groundbreaking volume by V. Belyaev and other scholars. The book includes a chapter titled Kazakh Music: From the 15th Century to the Mid-18th Century, which devotes special attention to Abai’s musical legacy. Belyaev describes Abai as a progressive thinker and a voice for enlightenment, quoting one of his famous verses: "Song opens the doors of the world to you, Song opens the death to...

Timur’s Birthplace Languishes on UNESCO List of Endangered Sites

Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva. Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage draws visitors from around the world, but the troubled modern history of another ancient site, Shakhrisabz, is a reminder that development and mass tourism sometimes overshadow preservation. Shakhrisabz, or Green City, is less known than some other tourist destinations in Uzbekistan that were part of the Silk Road network linking cultures across Asia, Europe, and Africa many centuries ago. Yet the old urban core is more than 2,000 years old and contains spectacular monuments and other structures, some dating from the heyday of the city during the rule of the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur, also known as Tamerlane, and the Timurids in medieval times. [caption id="attachment_34196" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Timur Statue; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] UNESCO declared it a world heritage site in 2000. But the historical center of Shakhrisabz, previously called Kesh, was placed on the U.N. cultural agency´s list of world heritage sites in danger in 2016 after large sections were razed to make way for a park and tourist facilities. It has stayed on the danger list ever since as officials in Uzbekistan, assisted by international advisers, try to figure out a way to prevent it from losing its United Nations status altogether. A total of 53 locations around the world are on UNESCO’s danger list. [caption id="attachment_34197" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] The Fayzullah Ravnakhi Museum B&B, one of many buildings demolished to make way for tourist facilities; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] A solution in Uzbekistan’s case appears to be in the works. At a meeting in Paris this month, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee tentatively approved an Uzbek proposal that would restore Shakhrisabz in southern Uzbekistan to the regular heritage list but in reduced form – only four key Timurid monuments would be included, while the rest of the historical center would be labeled as a buffer zone. “The main focus is expected to shift from the concept of a ´complete historic city´ to the conservation of the ensemble of monuments, including the Ak-Saray Palace, while preserving their urban context,” reported Gazeta.uz, a media organization in Uzbekistan. [caption id="attachment_34198" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Ak-Saray Palace; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] Uzbekistan must conduct archaeological studies, prepare a restoration plan, and take other measures in order for the proposal to succeed, according to Gazeta.uz. Uzbekistan must update UNESCO on its progress in February 2026, and the process could still take several years. Construction of the Ak-Saray Palace began in 1380 after a military victory by Timur, who was born in the city, according to UNESCO. The agency said that not one of the many Timurid monuments in Samarkand, north of Shakhrisabz, can rival the Ak-Saray Palace. “The foundations of its immense gate have been preserved: this architectural masterpiece is outstanding in its dimensions and bold design,” UNESCO said. While Shakhrisabz has less tourist infrastructure than nearby Samarkand, there are efforts to raise its profile. Last year, the Economic Cooperation Organization, whose ten members include Central Asian countries, declared it the tourism capital for 2024. Uzbekistan’s other cultural sites have also faced...

Opinion: Off the Grid in Uzbekistan – A Journey to Sarchashma’s Living Heritage

The Uzbek government’s tourism campaign is aiming to attract visitors to the ancient cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. These places, embodying Central Asia’s rich shared Persian and Turkic heritage, have been given extensive infrastructural and hospitality investments. Today, a stroll through Samarkand features a display of its luxury hotels and brick-paved shopping alleys boasting assortments of vintage ware and mass-produced souvenirs. Bukhara, also transformed by upgrades and restorations, is now host to the trendy Biennial, marketing the city as a new hub for ‘creatives, thinkers and visitors from all over the world’, in line with its legacy as the historical intellectual center of Central Asia. Finally, Khiva’s clay walls have been leveraged to turn the Itchan Kala into an attraction-cum-shopping-town where its distinct floral ornamentation is eclipsed by the fluorescent parade of cheap goods along and around historic monuments. While tourists who limit themselves to this triad will no doubt find heritage between the cracks of the consumerist-package wrapping, they risk missing out on the stuff that makes Central Asia so lovable – its people, nature, and quiet reverence for culture. That is why, for the more adventurous travelers, I recommend going off-piste, deep into the Gilon Valley two hours east of Shahrisabz: to the green little Tajik village of Sarchashma. [caption id="attachment_34153" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Image: Madina Gazieva[/caption] The picturesque way leading to Sarchashma starts at the Hisorak hydroelectric dam, 30km east of Shakhrisabz, itself a site of historic importance as the birthplace of the famous conqueror Amir Temur. Lasting approximately an hour and a half, the drive from Hisorak to Sarchashma feels like something out of a Kiarostami film: a winding earthen road, towered by the foothills of the Hissor mountain range, bordered by the azure Aksu River that culminates in the Hisorak reserve downstream. One can pause on top of the dam, or at any point, to appreciate the dramatic landscape created by the serpentine Aksu, interrupted by mountains rising from the valley floor. Closer to Sarchashma, two prominent, rounded, equilateral mountains emerge upstream of the river; this is where Sarchashma is cozily nestled amid a sprawling green patch of poplar and walnut trees. As the village’s elders explain, the settlement used to be called ‘Kizilimchak’, denoting ‘red-chested girl’ – the locals’ way of honoring the eminence of their topography. [caption id="attachment_34154" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Sarchashma Museum; image: Madina Gazieva[/caption] A cultural legacy, unadulterated nature, and welcoming people are what make Sarchashma worth visiting. The village is host to a small but packed museum, comprising three rooms in an old mosque, founded by Kundal artist and schoolteacher Aki Furqat. Furqat, who speaks Russian, spent years collecting scattered archaeological items such as pottery, sewing and farming tools found near what the inhabitants say was an ancient settlement called ‘Ochtepa’, now farmland, a few kilometers from Sarchashma. While formal excavations have yet to be carried out, the temporal range of artefacts points to a rich legacy: more recent items include Persian philosophical texts, Soviet-era photographs, and contemporary books written by local...