Silk Road Treasures - The Times Of Central Asia

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UNESCO World Heritage List

Timur’s Birthplace Languishes on UNESCO List of Endangered Sites

Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva. Uzbekistan’s cultural heritage draws visitors from around the world, but the troubled modern history of another ancient site, Shakhrisabz, is a reminder that development and mass tourism sometimes overshadow preservation. Shakhrisabz, or Green City, is less known than some other tourist destinations in Uzbekistan that were part of the Silk Road network linking cultures across Asia, Europe, and Africa many centuries ago. Yet the old urban core is more than 2,000 years old and contains spectacular monuments and other structures, some dating from the heyday of the city during the rule of the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur, also known as Tamerlane, and the Timurids in medieval times. [caption id="attachment_34196" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Timur Statue; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] UNESCO declared it a world heritage site in 2000. But the historical center of Shakhrisabz, previously called Kesh, was placed on the U.N. cultural agency´s list of world heritage sites in danger in 2016 after large sections were razed to make way for a park and tourist facilities. It has stayed on the danger list ever since as officials in Uzbekistan, assisted by international advisers, try to figure out a way to prevent it from losing its United Nations status altogether. A total of 53 locations around the world are on UNESCO’s danger list. [caption id="attachment_34197" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] The Fayzullah Ravnakhi Museum B&B, one of many buildings demolished to make way for tourist facilities; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] A solution in Uzbekistan’s case appears to be in the works. At a meeting in Paris this month, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee tentatively approved an Uzbek proposal that would restore Shakhrisabz in southern Uzbekistan to the regular heritage list but in reduced form – only four key Timurid monuments would be included, while the rest of the historical center would be labeled as a buffer zone. “The main focus is expected to shift from the concept of a ´complete historic city´ to the conservation of the ensemble of monuments, including the Ak-Saray Palace, while preserving their urban context,” reported Gazeta.uz, a media organization in Uzbekistan. [caption id="attachment_34198" align="aligncenter" width="2560"] Ak-Saray Palace; image: TCA, Stephen M. Bland[/caption] Uzbekistan must conduct archaeological studies, prepare a restoration plan, and take other measures in order for the proposal to succeed, according to Gazeta.uz. Uzbekistan must update UNESCO on its progress in February 2026, and the process could still take several years. Construction of the Ak-Saray Palace began in 1380 after a military victory by Timur, who was born in the city, according to UNESCO. The agency said that not one of the many Timurid monuments in Samarkand, north of Shakhrisabz, can rival the Ak-Saray Palace. “The foundations of its immense gate have been preserved: this architectural masterpiece is outstanding in its dimensions and bold design,” UNESCO said. While Shakhrisabz has less tourist infrastructure than nearby Samarkand, there are efforts to raise its profile. Last year, the Economic Cooperation Organization, whose ten members include Central Asian countries, declared it the tourism capital for 2024. Uzbekistan’s other cultural sites have also faced...

Media

Netflix Documentary ‘Off Road’ Showcases Kyrgyzstan to the World

A new documentary series, Off Road, filmed in Kyrgyzstan by Faraway Road Productions, has premiered on the global streaming platform Netflix. The project was produced in collaboration with Kyrgyzstan’s Ministry of Economy and Commerce, the Department of Tourism, and the Tourism Development Support Fund, all of whom played key roles in facilitating filming across the country. Off Road takes viewers on a thrilling automotive adventure across some of Kyrgyzstan’s most breathtaking landscapes from the capital Bishkek to the high mountain valleys of Issyk-Kul, Karakol, and other iconic destinations. Over six episodes, the series immerses audiences in the country’s natural beauty, vibrant culture, and the renowned hospitality of the Kyrgyz people. Edil Baisalov, Deputy Chairman of the Cabinet of Ministers of Kyrgyzstan, emphasized the significance of the series: “Thanks to the release of Off Road, millions of viewers around the world will discover the stunning nature of Kyrgyzstan and the traditional warmth of our people. We are grateful to the production company and Netflix for choosing Kyrgyzstan as a filming location. Next year, several additional films and series are expected to launch, further promoting our country’s tourism potential on Netflix and other international platforms.” More than a backdrop, Kyrgyzstan emerges as the true protagonist of Off Road, inviting global audiences to experience its rugged terrain, rich traditions, and unspoiled beauty.

Kazakh Writer

How The New York Times Came to Publish an Obituary for Kazakh writer Mukhtar Auezov

While browsing old issues of The New York Times, we wondered: “Is there anything here about the Kazakhs or Kazakhstan?” One edition stood out, the June 28, 1961 issue. On page 35, alongside obituaries for several prominent figures, was one for our great writer, Mukhtar Auezov. [caption id="attachment_33412" align="aligncenter" width="378"] “Winner of Lenin Prize in 1959 for 2-Volume Work Dies Mukhtar O. Auezov, the Kazakh poet and philosopher whose two-novel work, ‘Abai’ and ‘The Road of Abai,’ earned a Lenin Prize two years ago, died yesterday in Alma-Ata.”[/caption] The article went on to note that Mukhtar Auezov was born and raised in the Shyngystau region (known today as the Abai District), and later wrote a major work about the life of Abai. It also mentioned that he studied at Leningrad University and authored numerous literary works. In 1960, Auezov visited several U.S. states as part of a Soviet writers’ delegation. Upon returning home, he expressed in interviews his admiration for the towering skyscrapers of New York City. What pleased us even more was that The New York Times included a photograph of Auezov alongside the obituary. This shows that even in the 1960s, American literary circles recognized and took notice of a Kazakh writer. In other words, Auezov left a lasting impression on the American public. Other articles about him may have appeared in the U.S. press, but so far this obituary is the only one we have been able to find. Mukhtar Omarkhanuli Auezov holds the distinction of being the first known Kazakh writer to set foot on American soil. His official visit was well covered by the U.S. press and known to the American public at the time. This likely explains why such a major publication honored him with a dedicated obituary, informing readers around the world of his passing. The gesture reflects a significant level of respect and recognition. Mukhtar Auezov indeed visited the United States from February 17 to March 17, 1960, as part of a delegation of Soviet writers. This trip was part of the “Agreement Between the United States of America and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics on Exchanges in the Cultural, Technical, and Educational Fields.” According to the agreement, four American writers visited the USSR in 1959, and in return, a Soviet delegation traveled to the U.S. in February/March 1960. To give readers a closer look at his journey, we are sharing excerpts from Mukhtar Auezov’s diary, where he reflects on the trip. The entries were later published in a bilingual edition, Mukhtar Auezov: Impressions of America, in 2021, in both Kazakh and English. Below are a few details from Auezov’s impressions of the U.S.: That day we toured Washington, D.C. It’s a very beautiful city. No two houses look alike. Even the cars are all different, though there are many, they never repeat. We visited the old part of the city, the area known as ‘Georgetown.’ All the houses here are old, yet highly stylish, elegant two-story homes. There is one...

Archaeology

Kazakh Archaeologists Uncover Scythian-Era Treasures

Archaeologists from Al-Farabi Kazakh National University have uncovered artifacts from the Scythian era in Kazakhstan’s Almaty region, including a rare gold ring weighing nearly eight grams. A Symbol of Power and Authority The excavations took place in the Uyghur district near the village of Togyzbulak and were led by Professor Dosbol Baigunakov, dean of the university’s history department. The team studied the Togyzbulak-1 and Togyzbulak-2 burial mound complexes, which contain more than 20 ancient burial sites. Among the most notable discoveries were burial mounds No. 3 and No. 4, which contained the remains of a man and a woman, along with ceramic vessels, iron and stone artifacts, and gold jewelry. The standout find was a gold ring engraved with a lion, a symbol of strength and authority. Researchers believe the image combines human and animal traits, reflecting the spiritual worldview of the Saka tribes in the 3rd-4th centuries BC. “These findings confirm that the territory of the modern Uyghur region was a cultural center of the Saka civilization,” the university said in a statement. Ruins of a Burned City [caption id="attachment_33402" align="aligncenter" width="931"] Image: Al-Farabi National University[/caption] Separately, a potentially groundbreaking discovery has been made in the Zhetysu region. Olga Gumirova, executive director of the Petroglyph Hunters Foundation, reported the discovery of ruins from a medieval city previously known only through historical texts. Archaeologists unearthed remnants of a tower, fragments of brick walls, and traces of fire, suggesting the city may have been destroyed during the Mongol invasion. While further research is ongoing, early comparisons are being drawn to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Talkhiz and Koylyk. A month earlier, archaeologists from the Saryarka Archaeological Institute discovered 25 historical and cultural sites in the Shet district of the Karaganda region. These include burial mounds, necropolises, and complexes dating to the Bronze Age, Iron Age, and Middle Ages. According to the institute’s director, Alexei Kukushkin, this marks the beginning of an extensive research campaign, with formal dating pending excavation approvals. The “Golden Man” and Buddhist Relics One of the most significant archaeological discoveries in recent years is the 2018 find in the Tarbagatay district of East Kazakhstan, where over 3,000 gold artifacts were unearthed in a burial site. Led by renowned archaeologist Zainolla Samashev, the expedition found women’s bell earrings, gemstone necklaces, and ornate horse adornments dating to the 7th-8th centuries BC, treasures of exceptional artistic and historical value. Another major discovery occurred in the Ayranada Gorge in the Merken district, where archaeologists found fragments of an ancient Buddhist temple and a carved stone head of Buddha. Anna Krokosheva, senior researcher at the Museum of Ancient Taraz, noted that the find reinforces the region’s historical importance along the Silk Road. Despite the site’s remote location at over 3,000 meters above sea level, the artifacts are well-preserved and could enhance scientific and cultural tourism in southern Kazakhstan.

Traditions

The Hearth of Hospitality: The Importance of the Chaikhana in Central Asia

“Every meal begins with tea and ends with tea. Every guest is welcomed with tea. Every festival and every ceremony – from the celebration of birth to wedding to funeral – must feature tea” - Ketan Desai. Across Central Asia, the chaikhana, or teahouse, holds a cherished place in the region’s social and cultural fabric. Beyond serving cups of steaming tea, it represents history, hospitality, and a space where the rhythms of daily life unfold. For Central Asians, tea isn’t just a drink; it’s a way of life. Every pour, sup, and serving is steeped in tradition. Green tea is considered supreme in the east, while black tea holds court in the west. The offering of tea isn’t just polite, it’s a heartfelt symbol of welcoming and friendship, and to turn it down is practically a cultural crime. Tea is always poured into a piala, a small ceramic or porcelain bowl similar to the Chinese gaiwan or the Japanese chaiwan, but with its own unique steeped allure. A Link to History [caption id="attachment_33095" align="aligncenter" width="1024"] Chaikhana, Samarkand, 1905; image: Prokudin-Gorskiĭ[/caption] The chaikhana has roots stretching back centuries, intertwined with the history of the Silk Road. These teahouses sprang up along trade routes as places where merchants, travelers, and locals could rest and exchange goods, ideas, and stories. Over time, chaikhanas became hubs of cultural exchange, bearing silent witness to the blending of a rich tapestry of traditions. Central Asia is a region shaped by the collapse of the Soviet Union and subsequent episodes of democratization, political coercion, and repression. Throughout history, the chaikhana also played a role in the region’s intellectual life. Much like coffeehouses in Europe, these spaces often served as platforms for debate, poetry readings, and the airing of progressive ideas. These venues often feature private rooms with enclosed spaces or pull-down shades and outdoor spots with canopies or yurt-like structures, ensuring discretion for guests. Unlike typical restaurants or cafes, which rarely offer such private arrangements, teahouses allow organizations to hold meetings comfortably and confidentially. Teahouses serve a dual purpose by balancing privacy with public engagement, making them invaluable to those seeking both discretion and societal visibility. [caption id="attachment_33096" align="aligncenter" width="1019"] Bukhara Chaikhana; image: Joepyrek[/caption] Teahouses serve as neutral spaces where the general public and government can freely interact. They offer a safe space for open discussions, even for government employees, highlighting their unique role in fostering dialogue. The subversive potential of teahouses cannot be overlooked, as debates frequently occurred outside formal governmental frameworks. They have quietly allowed people to organize and challenge institutional power in subtle yet meaningful ways. Tradition and Architecture Chaikhanas are more than just teahouses; they’re cultural treasures enriched by stunning architecture. From simple wooden benches in rural areas to urban teahouses adorned with intricate carvings, colorful tiles, and ornate patterns, these spaces are as much about artistry as they are about tea. The interiors feature low tables and cushions, encouraging leisurely conversations and fostering a warm, communal atmosphere. Whether beside a flowing stream...

Film Festival

Kyrgyzstan: Film Festival Showcases Central Asian Talent, New and Old

An international film festival in Kyrgyzstan this week is celebrating the past, present, and future of Central Asian cinema. The Bishkek International Film Festival features a retrospective of the work of Kyrgyz director Tolomush Okeev, whose films include The Ferocious One, The Red Apple, and The Descendant of the Snow Leopard; a presentation of ten film projects by emerging directors in Central Asia; and a competition among nine films whose directors are from Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. The June 11-15 festival also has master classes for those who really want to dig into the craft of making films. Hosts of some of the classes include actor and educator Olesya Gribok, who will talk about working with emotions, self-presentation, and other core actor values; designer Alex Rosno, who will discuss using AI tools to create scenes and build storyboards; and Andrzej Bartkowiak, a cinematographer and director with decades of experience with lighting, movement, and composition. Films from India, Mongolia, Germany and other countries will vie for an international prize. A separate contest involves nine films from Central Asia, seeking to highlight the region’s movie-making talent. There’s also “KyrgyzBox” - a competition just for movies, including box office standouts, from Kyrgyzstan. In another contest, film project contenders are “accepted only from citizens from Central Asian countries – Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan - with strong potential for international distribution,” according to the film festival. The project must be a feature film that is at least 75 minutes long and filming must be planned in Central Asia or have a “close connection” to the region. The retrospective of Okeev, who died in 2001 at age 66, showcases a screenwriter and director who made films over several decades of the Soviet era and was known for filming in the majestic mountains and deserts of Kyrgyzstan. The Bishkek festival, the third edition of the event, will screen several of Okeev’s films, including The Descendant of the Snow Leopard, a 1984 film that draws inspiration from Kyrgyz tales about hunters who follow ancient laws. “When a young chief, Kojozhash, breaks a sacred ancestral taboo, it leads to tragic consequences for the entire tribe,” the festival says in a description of the film. The snow leopard is a national symbol of Kyrgyzstan, which is taking steps to protect the vulnerable species.