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Min-Kush — The Kyrgyz Time Capsule

Although Min-Kush is only about 100 miles from Bishkek, as the crow flies, the mountains make us travel 250 miles. We reached a scenic viewpoint along the road, and I stopped to take a picture. I exited the truck and approached a horse with dramatic snow-capped mountains peeking through the clouds. A man came and invited us to ride his horse around his farm. This is his farm, his 75 sheep, and his horse. The horse and I galloped around the farm, chatted with the farmer, and got back on the road. This was my first time on horseback after a year and a half in Central Asia. Min-Kush, once a prosperous town nestled in the Kyrgyz mountains known for its bustling uranium mining industry, has hit the end of the road literally and figuratively. Coming down the A367 highway, a nondescript road sign says “Min-Kush” with an arrow pointing left. We turned, and the road seamlessly transformed from pavement to dirt. It is the last and only settlement on this road off of the highway. The only other vehicles we pass are semi-trucks carrying tons of coal destined for Kyrgyzstan and China. [caption id="attachment_25324" align="aligncenter" width="1200"] @TCA H.Kuvin[/caption] The city peaked at around 20,000 in the 1980s, but today’s number hovers around 3,500. Established in 1955, the apartments and houses are built in the Stalinist architectural style. The vibrant blue paint that once covered the wooden panels is faded, and sections of the buildings are caved in, but people still live here. The contrast in one building is stark. On the top floor, there are broken windows and unhinged shutters. On the bottom floor, there are new window frames and flowers on the windowsill. The blossoming life on the windowsill is far from what it once was. We stopped and chatted with some locals and asked about their lives. “When Moscow supported us, we had everything: stores, schools, factories, and a hospital. Now…nothing, but we cannot dwell on things. Life is better now than it was after the fall of the USSR.” The man asks for a cigarette and a light; my French friend complies with his request. The main draw of Min-Kush for me is an abandoned felt pen factory. I’ve seen pictures online of some incredible Soviet banners that serve as a time capsule in the mountains. We asked if anyone knew where to find it, and a man told us it was torn down and replaced by a soccer field. As night set in, we looked for a guesthouse of sorts. I had read online that there is one, but there are no signs or information about it anywhere. We stop by a man fixing his Soviet Chaika car on the side of the road. He tells us the hotel is right up the road. We drive to an unlit building where two men are fixing another truck. We chatted, and he made a phone call. Ten minutes later, a lady shows up, unlocks the...

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Rybakina’s 2024 Season Ends with Win over World No. 1

Kazakh tennis player Elena Rybakina has ended her 2024 season on a high note, beating world No. 1 Aryna Sabalenka at the WTA finals in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, even though she wasn’t able to advance to the semifinals of the yearend event. Moscow-born Rybakina, who is ranked fifth in the world, defeated the Belarusian star 6-4, 3-6, 6-1 in the elite tournament’s Purple Group on Wednesday after losing her first two matches to Jasmine Paolini of Italy and Zheng Qinwen of China. "I think today I served really well, and especially in the third set," Rybakina said, according to the WTA. It was her second win over Sabalenka this season. "But of course, overall, I know that I'm not at my best, and if I would have maybe more weeks and some other matches, but with all the circumstances, I'm really happy overall how I played this this tournament," said Rybakina, who struggled with physical issues in the second half of the season after a strong start. This year, Rybakina also split with coach Stefano Vukov, with whom she had considerable success, including the 2022 Wimbledon title, despite concerns among commentators about his intense, critical style. Next year, she plans to work with Goran Ivanisevic, the former coach of Novak Djokovic. "I'm really looking forward to this partnership," Rybakina said. "I think he's a great champion and he has so much experience.”

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Kumys, Beshbarmak, and Other Wonders of the Kazakh Feast

Autumn in Kazakhstan is traditionally a time of abundant treats. Today, local chefs and experts are trying to break the stereotype of Kazakhstan having a bland and unhealthy national cuisine, and are actively marketing it to foreign guests. The modern cuisine of Kazakhstan has absorbed a variety of Asian dishes, but also includes dishes from Soviet cuisine. Almost every Kazakhstani family is familiar with borscht and dumplings borrowed from Russians and Ukrainians, pilaf and samsa brought by Uzbeks, shashlik taken from the Caucasian peoples, and funchoza (Asian salad with noodles) and kuksi (cold noodle soup) adopted from Koreans. Of course, as in many parts of the former Soviet Union, Olivier salad is traditionally prepared on New Year's Eve in Kazakhstan. Turkish dishes have also become part of the daily diet in the years since independence. For example, it is impossible to imagine today's fast food without the doner kebab. International fast food, such as pizza, hamburgers, and sushi, have also become popular in big cities. Nevertheless, traditional Kazakh dishes form the basis of the country's eclectic cuisine. Beshbarmak is truly a Khan's dish. Any festive occasion is unthinkable without it, and restaurants specializing in traditional cuisine must include it in their menus. In its original version, beshbarmak is prepared from salted horse meat, including kazy, shujuk, and karta (horse intestines). Unleavened dough, potatoes, onions, and spices are also added. However, today, a variant using beef is also widespread. [caption id="attachment_25083" align="aligncenter" width="1254"] Kazakh national dish, beshbarmak; image: iStock[/caption] Beshbarmak, like many Turkic dishes, is the subject of constant dispute between Kazakhs and Kyrgyz. The neighboring peoples will always espouse different views on the question of whom created the dish. The differences in the recipe are not very significant; in Kazakhstan, the dough is usually cut into large rhombuses, and in Kyrgyzstan, into small oblong pieces. Tatarstan and Bashkiria also lay claim to the Khan's dish. There, mutton rather than beef is most often added to horse meat. Another pillar of Kazakh cuisine is kuirdak. Each family cherishes its version of the recipe, and kuirdak must be served in any restaurant claiming to serve the national cuisine. The dish starts with cuts of mutton and organ meat, such as heart, liver, and kidneys. These cuts are fried in sheep fat alongside potatoes, onions, parsley, and spices. [caption id="attachment_25084" align="aligncenter" width="1254"] Traditional dish kuirdak; image: iStock[/caption] Unfortunately, the most traditional Kazakh dishes are not always available to foreigners, as some can now be tasted only in villages. For example, in honor of the arrival of guests, before the main meal, guests are offered a boiled sheep's head. It is cut right at the table, and each part (ears, eyes, tongue, etc.) is served according to the status of the guests. Another dish rarely served in restaurants is baked mutton brains. Ethnographers continue to search for and re-popularize national dishes that were common before the Russian Revolution but have now virtually disappeared in cities. For example, the ritual dish Ylpershek was...

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GTA and Counter-Strike Banned in Tajikistan

Residents of Tajikistan have been ordered to refrain from playing popular computer games such as Grand Theft Auto and Counter-Strike, and owners of computer game clubs have been banned from distributing them. According to information published by the Dushanbe police press service on Telegram, these games can influence young people and make them more prone to criminal behavior. “According to the results of the historical and cultural expertise of the Tajik Ministry of Culture, the games Counter-Strike and Grand Theft Auto contain scenes of violence, murder, and robbery,” police said. Game club owners and parents of children were told to comply with national laws prohibiting violent and unethical video games, and said raids would be conducted at game clubs to detect violations. A similar initiative has been discussed in Russia. In 2022, the State Duma proposed banning video games containing violent scenes, pornography, and profanity. Counter-Strike is a multiplayer shooter in which teams of special forces and terrorists perform missions to rescue hostages, clear bombs, or protect VIPs. Grand Theft Auto (GTA) is an adventure game in which the player performs missions in fictional American cities, participating in criminal activities, driving vehicles, and committing robberies to advance the story.

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Aging Kyrgyzstan: Economic Challenges and Empowering Seniors

According to the National Statistical Committee of the Kyrgyz Republic, the country's population is aging quickly. Based on UN data, the agency predicts that the proportion of elderly people (65 and over) in Kyrgyzstan will significantly increase by 2030. According to the analysis, currently, 5.7% of the total population is elderly, and this figure may reach 8% by 2030. Speaking about the processes associated with an aging population, experts have highlighted social funds related to the payment of pensions, benefits, and other contributions to people who have finished their careers. Additionally, an aging population will produce fewer materials and public goods, and state tax revenues will decrease, which could lead to a decline in the country's standard of living. However, economist Kubanychbek Idinov sees this as a manageable problem. The 61-year-old believes that the increase in the average age is indicative of an improvement in Kyrgyzstan's standard of living. “The country's GDP is growing, and state budget spending on social projects is increasing. But we need to give pensioners more opportunities to work. This will be a great help to the revenue side of the budget. People who retire can work elsewhere. This allows them not to rely on their pensions alone, to have additional income,” Idinov told The Times of Central Asia. Most retirees in Kyrgyzstan continue to work. Idinov said they start small businesses or enterprises and pass on their experience to young people. According to official data, the country currently has about 150,000 working pensioners. “It is necessary at the state level to support trade unions' work in attracting retirees to work. It is possible to work at the level of local authorities. Then the issue of small pension growth will not be acute for people and the state,” Idinov said. On a related matter, Kyrgyz sociologists say that despite a slowdown, the country's population grew by almost half a million people (+7.8%) over the year. Kyrgyzstan remains the second-largest Central Asian country in terms of population growth after Tajikistan. “The increase in population, despite a slight decrease in the growth rate, is provided by the excess of births over deaths with a negative balance of external migration,” the report of the National Statistical Committee states. The large number of labor migrants returning home is also helping to combat the decrease in the number of able-bodied people. In 2007, experts from the UN Demography Department suggested evaluating countries as those with an old population if more than 7% of its citizens are over 65 years old.

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Tajik-Born Artist Sabina Rosas Found Dead in U.S. Hotel

Sabina Rosas, a 33-year-old artist also known as Sabina Khorramdel, was found murdered in a hotel room in the Hamptons in the state of New York, according to the British tabloid the Daily Mail. Born in Tajikistan, Rosas moved to the U.S. in 2009. Her body was discovered on October 28 by staff at the Shou Sugi Ban House spa hotel. Police suspect her partner, 56-year-old Thomas Gannon, in the murder. Gannon was later found dead at his Pennsylvania home, with authorities confirming he had died by suicide. The couple had been seen together at a spa in Water Mill, where CCTV captured Gannon leaving alone. Suffolk County police have described Rosas’s murder as a domestic incident. In 2023 Rosas co-founded Ruyò Journal, a platform to support Central Asian cultural dialogue and community. Just before her birthday, she started a fundraiser to travel to Portugal, where she planned to host her first artist residency in November. She hoped it would provide a beautiful and inspiring space for creating new work. Announcing her plans, she had said: “I will also launch my artist website to create the perfect digital space to showcase my art." “As I am about to turn 33, I can’t help but laugh at the fact that 33 is often associated with the age of Jesus when he made his final sacrifice. Although I don’t plan on doing anything dramatic, I consider this year a turning point in my life,” Sabina wrote shortly before her death.