Cotton - The Times Of Central Asia

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German Firms Urged to Address Human Rights Risks in Uzbek Cotton

German companies, supported by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development and the German textile sector, are increasingly exploring Uzbekistan as a potential market. A report titled Relevant Human Rights Expertise: Risk Assessment for German Companies in the Textile Industry of Uzbekistan evaluates how these firms comply with supply chain laws and fulfill their human rights obligations. The report underscores ongoing challenges in Uzbekistan’s cotton industry, despite recent reforms. Key issues include risks of forced labor, government interference in cotton production, and poor working conditions. Farmers face coercive contracts, insecure land tenure, and restricted union rights. These problems persist even after Uzbekistan privatized its cotton industry and adopted the ‘cluster’ model, which integrates farming, processing, and manufacturing. Umida Niyazova, founder of the Uzbekistan Human Rights Forum, highlighted widespread violations, including illegal land seizures and forced production quotas. She emphasized the lack of protections for cotton workers. Additionally, the report warns that some Uzbek cotton may be entering German markets indirectly through suppliers in Turkey and other countries. The report stresses that effective human rights due diligence is essential for maintaining brand integrity. However, according to author Ben Vanpeperstraete, German companies are failing to adequately address risks associated with Uzbek cotton. Public communications by firms often lack tailored approaches to identifying and mitigating these risks. Forced labor risks in Uzbekistan’s cotton industry remain significant, the report states, despite ongoing reforms. Corporate disclosures frequently omit recognition of forced labor as a sourcing risk. The report calls on businesses to adopt due diligence practices that address Uzbekistan’s restrictions on unionizing and civil society activities. Companies are urged to map and disclose their supply chains to enhance compliance and traceability. Trade between Germany and Uzbekistan surpassed €1 billion in 2023, with German investments in Uzbekistan reaching €800 million by early 2024.

Bilateral Cooperation Foreign Investment Infrastructure Development Cotton Economic Cooperation Agriculture China

Chinese Company Builds Cotton-Textile Cluster in South Kazakhstan

Xinjiang Lihua (Group) Co., Ltd., one of China’s largest companies specializing in the cultivation and deep processing of cotton, has commenced work on a cotton-textile cluster in Kazakhstan’s southern Turkestan region. The project’s progress was reviewed on November 14 during a meeting between Kanat Sharlapaev, Kazakhstan’s Minister of Industry and Construction, and representatives of the company. Located in the Turan Special Economic Zone, the joint venture involves the construction of facilities for PVC pipe manufacturing, drip irrigation systems, two cotton processing plants, a spinning mill, a weaving mill, a dyeing and finishing factory, and a garment factory. The project, with a total cost of 180 billion KZT (over $363 million), is expected to generate more than 4,000 jobs. This year, the initiative saw the installation of a drip irrigation system, cotton cultivation on 1,120 hectares, and the start of construction for the spinning mill. Minister Sharlapaev underscored the project’s significance for the development of Kazakhstan’s light industry, pledging comprehensive government support to ensure its success.

ILO Agriculture Legislation Cotton Human rights

Teachers in Turkmenistan Demand Money from Pupils to Hire Cotton Pickers

Following Turkmen President Serdar Berdymukhamedov's recent directive to speed up the cotton-picking campaign, the Chronicles of Turkmenistan has reported that schools in Lebap province have started collecting money from students to hire workers for the task. The established daily norm for each class is 200-300 kilograms of cotton, depending on the number of students. Based on the requirements, schools must hire 5-6 pickers, each of whom must pick at least 50 kg of cotton daily. In addition to schools, health facilities have also been obliged to provide workers under the cotton-picking campaign. However, despite the ban on collecting money from their subordinates, teachers and medical workers have to look for laborers among the local population, offering payment of 35-40 TMT per day ($10-12). According to a roadmap signed in June by Turkmenistan and the ILO, forced labor in cotton harvesting, including the mobilization of children and government employees, should be eliminated. Nevertheless, mobilizing workers and schoolchildren to fulfil plans for the cotton harvesting campaign continues. In addition, students and civil servants, including teachers, are systematically forced to work in the cotton fields under threat of dismissal from their jobs or expulsion from educational institutions.

Government Cotton Rule of law Agriculture ILO modernization

Uzbekistan Ends Forced Labor, But Cotton Industry Faces New Challenges

Global Voices reports that Uzbekistan has succeeded in phasing out forced labor in its cotton industry, but now faces new challenges. The country has made progress in ending forced labor and modernizing its cotton sector, driven by economic and political reasons. Forced labor hurts businesses and the nation’s international image, which the government has aimed to improve since 2016. Cotton production accounts for 12% of GDP. Since 2017, the government has introduced major reforms to modernize Uzbekistan’s cotton industry, led by President Shavkat Mirziyoyev after he took office in 2016. By 2018, labor control was strengthened, and the cotton cluster system, which controls the entire production process, began to take shape. Today, almost all cotton is grown through 142 clusters. Cotton quotas have been abolished by 2020, and the minimum wage will now be negotiated. The same year, the International Labor Organization reported that child labor was no longer a problem, and the international boycott was lifted in 2022. Eradicating forced labor has been hailed as “one of the most significant victories anywhere in the world in the battle against forced labor in the twenty-first century,” said Bennett Freeman, co-founder of the Cotton Campaign in 2022. This achievement was possible thanks to the diligence of organizations such as human rights defenders of Uzbekistan and the Uzbekistan Forum for Human Rights, which monitored the cotton fields and recorded violations, as well as the government's promptness in reviewing these reports. Global Voices writes that despite the progress achieved in Uzbekistan's cotton industry, there are still serious problems. The report states, “Despite abandoning forced labor, the government still continues to exert strong control over cotton production and prevents farmers from fully operating on their own terms.” Farmers receive resources and loans, but the system remains inefficient, with state-set cotton prices often differing from global rates. The government and industry need to address these ongoing issues while pursuing international standards and export opportunities to build trust and transparency.

Labour harvest Justice Human rights Agriculture Cotton

Turkmenistan Continues to Hide Forced Labor in Cotton Fields

Although the season has yet to officially open, cotton harvesting is already underway in Turkmenistan. As reported by Azatlyk correspondents, workers, including budgetary employees in the Lebap province, are being watched by Ministry of National Security (MNS) officers. These officers, tasked with preventing information about forced labor being leaked, have forbidden the use of cell phones in the fields. Turkmenistan has long been criticized for its use of forced labor on cotton plantations, and authorities continue to hide the reality. The increased control by security agencies coincides with a briefing in Ashgabat on measures discussed in collaboration with the International Labor Organization (ILO), to eradicate child and forced labor. Despite official bans, including an order issued by Labor Minister Muhammetseyit Sylabov in July this year prohibiting the employment of children under 18, child labor continues in some regions, including Kerki and Chardjev etraps, and teachers confirm that high school students, with their parents' consent, participate in cotton picking. At the same time, cotton pickers complain about underpayment. Employers also repeatedly renege on promised rates of pay and in Lebap, citing the poor quality of the cotton harvested, are known to withhold up to 50% of their workers' salaries, leading to inevitable conflict. Despite orders issued by the authorities to increase pickers' wages in accordance with the state's procurement prices for cotton, the workers' situation shows no sign of improving.

Central Asia Agriculture Cotton

Turkmenistan’s Public Sector Employees Pay Up to Care for Mulberry Silkworms, Cotton Fields

To cover the costs of silkworm care and the weeding of cotton, money is being collected from employees of state institutions in the Mary region, according to a report by Radio Azatlyk. According to a verbal order issued by the authorities, 100 manat is being collected from each government employee for the cost of silkworm care - and 30 manat for weeding. Many workers at state institutions are dissatisfied with yet another example of extortion, but say they have no choice but to comply. According to an employee of one local state organizations, if any employee refuses to hand over the money, a report will be written on him or her. Employees who don't agree with the collection of money are accused of opposing public policy, which can lead to their dismissal under various false pretexts. "It is already very difficult to find a job now. Therefore, the majority of public sector workers are forced to agree to submit to the authorities' next levies. If you write a report on one worker, the rest of them immediately agree to any demands," the anonymous government worker said. According to a presidential decree signed in February, Turkmenistan plans to produce 2,100 tons of silkworm cocoons this year. Meanwhile, cotton sowing projects also continue.