Silk Road - The Times Of Central Asia

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Book Launch

The USSR Is Gone, the Story Isn’t: Joe Luc Barnes On the Road Across the Former Soviet Union

On a foggy but mild London evening, The Times of Central Asia joined journalist and contributor Joe Luc Barnes to celebrate the launch of his new book, Farewell to Russia: A Journey Through the Former USSR. As the wine flowed, the conversation ranged from Silk Road cities to Soviet ghosts. It was exactly the sort of evening you might expect from a book that explores one of the world’s most complex regions with both political sharpness and a healthy sense of humor. Barnes’ book begins with a deceptively simple question: What actually happened to the fifteen countries that emerged following the Soviet Union’s collapse in 1991? The clichés are familiar: snow, concrete, and the KGB. Nevertheless, Barnes’ depiction reveals that the real story is stranger, funnier, and far more human. In the years since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, he has crossed the former Soviet states from Estonia’s tech hubs to Uzbekistan’s minarets and Azerbaijan’s flame towers, gathering stories from taxi drivers, activists, nomads, and anyone willing to converse over a drink. The result is part travelogue and part political detective story, with a strong dose of dark comedy about life after empire. Barnes moves easily between epic scenery and the absurdities of everyday life. Georgian wine and Armenian brandy make an appearance alongside Silk Road bazaars, smoky bars, and long railway excursions. At times there is also the lingering suspicion that someone, somewhere, is still listening. It is a portrait of a region that the West often reduces to geopolitics but which, as Barnes shows, is full of resilience, generosity, and a distinctly post-Soviet sense of humor. [caption id="attachment_45000" align="aligncenter" width="1600"] Image: TCA[/caption] Barnes is well placed to tell the story, as a journalist who has spent more than a decade working across China and the former Soviet space. Since the full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, he has visited all fifteen former Soviet republics, a journey that has taken him from former gulag sites in Kazakhstan to Tajikistan’s notorious Anzob Tunnel and through the shifting political landscape of the region. The book was released on March 5, a date heavy with Cold War symbolism. It marks the anniversary of Joseph Stalin’s death in 1953 and Winston Churchill’s Iron Curtain speech in 1946. With 2026 also marking thirty-five years since the collapse of the Soviet Union, Barnes’ journey arrives at a moment when questions about territory, independence, and Russia’s continuing influence feel newly urgent. Farewell to Russia: A Journey Through the Former USSR by Joe Luc Barnes is available now in hardback, audiobook, and ebook.

Tourism

Kyrgyzstan Moves to Expand Domestic and International Rail Tourism

Rail transport is expected to play a greater role in Kyrgyzstan’s tourism strategy as authorities seek to promote railways as an affordable and comfortable travel option for both domestic and international visitors. On February 11, the national railway operator Kyrgyz Temir Jolu and the Tourism Development Support Fund of the Kyrgyz Republic signed a memorandum of cooperation aimed at the sustainable development of domestic and international tourism through rail infrastructure and passenger services. The agreement provides for joint promotional campaigns and coordinated railway tourism projects. According to Kyrgyz Temir Jolu Chief Executive Officer Azamat Sakiev, rail-based tourism has demonstrated steady growth since the launch of dedicated tourist trains in partnership with travel companies in 2021. He said the company is prioritizing domestic routes while working to restore demand for cross-border rail travel. New routes are planned for this year, alongside continued modernization of rolling stock. Refurbished railcars featuring traditional interior design have already entered service, aimed at strengthening the country’s tourism brand and enhancing the passenger experience. Following the upgrades, the company reports a noticeable increase in traveler interest. Kyrgyz Temir Jolu has introduced luxury and VIP compartment cars on the Bishkek-Balykchy line serving the Issyk-Kul region. Last year, the route was extended to the Balykchy Beach stop, providing passengers with direct access to the lakeshore during the summer tourist season. In 2025, the route carried 116,122 passengers, up 31% compared to 2024. Kyrgyzstan’s rail network remains limited, largely reflecting Soviet-era infrastructure. The main line runs from the Kazakh border through Bishkek to Balykchy. Despite these constraints, the country hosted 27 international tourist trains between 2022 and 2025, bringing visitors from Europe, Asia, and the United States, indicating growing global interest in rail-based travel to Kyrgyzstan. Rail tourism is also expanding at the regional level. Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan recently extended their joint Jibek Joly tourist train route to include Dushanbe, strengthening cross-border rail tourism links in Central Asia. Meanwhile, British operator Golden Eagle Luxury Trains has launched The Grand Silk Road, a 22-day luxury rail journey connecting major Silk Road destinations across the region.

Tourism

New Rail Tour Launched Across Silk Road Routes in Central Asia

Rail tourism is gaining traction in Central Asia, offering travelers a slower yet more immersive way to experience the region’s historic Silk Road cities. Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan have recently expanded their joint Jibek Joly tourist train route to include Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, an initiative that further strengthens regional railway tourism. A new high-end offering has now entered the market. British operator Golden Eagle Luxury Trains has launched The Grand Silk Road, a 22-day luxury rail journey traversing key cultural and historical landmarks along the ancient Silk Road corridor. Spanning approximately 3,862 kilometers, the route begins in Beijing and concludes in Tashkent. It passes through northwest China and four Central Asian countries: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. Notable stops include Almaty, Bishkek, Lake Issyk-Kul, Dushanbe, and Uzbekistan’s major heritage cities, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Kokand, and Nukus. The inaugural departure is scheduled for September 21 to October 12, 2026. The route is expected to increase high-end tourism to Central Asia. Due to the absence of a direct railway link between China and Kyrgyzstan, a segment of the journey, between Kashgar and Almaty, will be completed by air. Kyrgyzstan’s existing rail network connects to Kazakhstan, extending to Bishkek and Balykchi, near Lake Issyk-Kul. Meanwhile, China, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan are advancing the construction of a new cross-border railway that will directly link the three countries. Once operational, the line is expected to facilitate both freight transit and tourism, providing a critical new artery for regional connectivity.

Tourism

Kazakhstan-Uzbekistan Jibek Joly Train Tour Extended to Tajikistan

Kazakhstan’s national railway company, Kazakhstan Temir Zholy (KTZ), has announced the expansion of its popular Jibek Joly (Silk Road) tourist train route to include Tajikistan, adding a new stop to one of Central Asia’s flagship railway tourism initiatives. The updated route will now reach the Tajik capital, Dushanbe, extending the tour beyond Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan for the first time. The inaugural journey on the extended route is scheduled to depart from Almaty on March 20, 2026, and return on March 25, passing through a series of historic Silk Road cities: Turkestan (Kazakhstan), Samarkand (Uzbekistan), Dushanbe (Tajikistan) and Tashkent (Uzbekistan). The tour package includes rail travel, guided sightseeing, entrance to cultural and historical sites, and organized transfers. Its launch coincides with Nauryz, the region’s traditional spring holiday, allowing travelers to experience vibrant local celebrations along the way. First introduced in November 2024, the Jibek Joly train originally ran between Almaty, Turkestan, and Tashkent, and has since become a highly visible symbol of the region’s growing tourism sector. The project reflects broader efforts to promote Central Asia as a unified tourist destination. Regional leaders have advocated for a shared visa-free regime for foreign visitors, similar to Europe’s Schengen Zone, to encourage cross-border travel and boost international tourism. Officials say that initiatives like Jibek Joly can help strengthen cultural ties, foster regional integration, and raise Central Asia’s profile on the global tourism map.

Archaeology

Chinese Uzbek Archaeologists Uncover Ancient City Walls at Kuva Silk Road Site

A team of Chinese and Uzbek archaeologists has uncovered a well-preserved section of city walls at the ancient settlement of Kuva in eastern Uzbekistan, dating from the 3rd century BCE to the 10th century CE, according to a report published by Xinhua. The discovery was made by the joint Luoyang-Ferghana archaeological expedition. Researchers say the find offers critical physical evidence for understanding the historical development of a Silk Road city and the enduring cultural exchange between East and West. The team also hailed the excavation as a key achievement of international cooperation under the Belt and Road Initiative. Located in the Ferghana Valley, a historic hub along the ancient Silk Road, the ruins of Kuva cover an area of approximately 110,000 square meters. Xinhua noted that the valley has maintained close ties with China for over 2,000 years. Preliminary findings indicate that the city’s fortifications were rebuilt multiple times and remained in use across several historical eras from the Parthian Kingdom and the states of Dayuan and Sogdiana to the Samanid dynasty. Liu Bin, head of the Chinese delegation to the joint expedition, said the evolving construction techniques used in the walls provide valuable insights into the architectural practices, building materials, and cultural influences of different periods. He added that such features help trace the diffusion of cultural traditions along major trade routes. The Luoyang-Ferghana team was established in 2023 as a collaboration between the Luoyang Archaeological Institute in China’s Henan Province and Ferghana State University in Uzbekistan. Since then, archaeologists have identified palaces, city gates, fortifications, residential structures, streets, and craft workshops at the site. Liu Bin noted that systematic excavations of the palace areas are planned for next year, which will further clarify the city’s layout and functional zones. As previously reported by The Times of Central Asia, similar Chinese-Uzbek archaeological partnerships are underway in Surkhandarya, Samarkand, Ferghana, and Khorezm. These projects have led to discoveries of ancient settlements, urban infrastructure, and even an Iron Age city-state, underscoring the growing scope of bilateral archaeological cooperation in Uzbekistan.

Silk Road

The Artistic Brilliance of Central Asia Takes Center Stage at Sotheby’s

On October 29, Sotheby’s will host its Arts of the Islamic World and India sale, featuring a dazzling selection of manuscripts, ceramics, metalwork, and jewelry that together trace the creative reach of Central Asia across six centuries. The auction highlights how the region’s artists shaped Islamic visual culture from the early medieval period to the Timurid age. Among the most important works is a rare page from the monumental Baysunghur Qur’an, produced around 1400 in Herat or Samarkand. Another piece connects to the earlier Samanid Dynasty, whose rule from Bukhara and Tashkent fostered a flourishing of calligraphic pottery in the ninth and tenth centuries. The Arab geographer al-Maqdisi once praised the “large bowls from Shash,” an early name for Tashkent, noting their reputation throughout the Islamic world. [caption id="attachment_38298" align="aligncenter" width="1797"] A line from the 'Baysunghur Qur'an', attributed to 'Umar al-Aqta, Herat or Samarkand, circa 1400; image: Sotheby's[/caption] Two colorful Timurid mosaic tiles from the fourteenth or fifteenth century illustrate the architectural splendor of Samarkand and Herat. Their glazed patterns in cobalt, turquoise, and white once formed part of vast decorative panels in mosques and mausoleums. The geometric interlace and stylized foliage that define them became a visual signature of Timurid architecture, a style that spread from Central Asia to Persia and India. [caption id="attachment_38301" align="aligncenter" width="1346"] A Golden Horde turquoise and pearl-set gold belt or necklace, Pontic-Caspian Steppe, 14th century; image: Sotheby's[/caption] The Times of Central Asia spoke with Frankie Keyworth, a specialist in Islamic and Indian Art at Sotheby’s, for a closer look. TCA: How did manuscripts like the Baysunghur Qur’an serve as symbols of power and faith in the Timurid court, and what does its immense scale - a Qur’an so vast it took two people to turn a page - reveal about the empire’s ambition, artistry, and self-image? Keyworth: The manuscript was a hugely ambitious and challenging project, even just by the tools it would take to create, with monumental sheets of paper measuring 177 by 101cm., and a large pen whose nib would have to measure over 1cm. Displayed on a magnificent marble stand, the manuscript would be a staggering visual representation of the patron’s wealth and piety. Their subsequent use during public recitation reinforced the elite’s religious aspirations. The fact that this manuscript is unsurpassed by any other medieval Qur’an and remains so valued centuries after it was produced at the turn of the 15th century reveals the key role manuscripts played in the establishment of the Timurid dynastic image. [caption id="attachment_38299" align="aligncenter" width="1346"] A Timurid brass jug (mashrabe), Herat, Afghanistan, 15th-early 16th century; image: Sotheby's[/caption] TCA: A brass jug from Herat shaped like a Chinese vase, a ceramic bowl from Tashkent inscribed in Arabic script - these objects tell of traders, scholars, and artists linking worlds from Samarkand to Beijing long before globalization had a name. What can you tell us about how this trade transpired, and are there similarities to modern transport corridors? Keyworth: Trade via the so-called Silk Road endured for...