Mountaineer Anar Burasheva is the first Kazakh woman to climb the highest peaks on all seven continents and has already summited three of the world’s fourteen eight-thousanders. Her path is demanding and dangerous, yet, as she notes, it is achievable with discipline and preparation.
On some summits, she can remain only for a few seconds, as lingering would be unsafe; on others, she is able to pause briefly, take in the view, and absorb the scale of the landscape. Above 8,000 meters, however, one rule always applies: descend on time.
In an interview with The Times of Central Asia, Burasheva discusses why the mountains erase distinctions of gender, why turning back can be the wisest decision, and how extreme altitude reveals a person’s true character.
TCA: You are in high demand right now. Is that because you are one of the few women engaged in such an extreme sport?
Burasheva: That plays a role, but I think the main reason is that the approach to covering such achievements has changed. In the past, women’s accomplishments in our society did not receive sufficient attention. Now the opposite is true, and that’s good; it creates role models for young girls.
TCA: You are currently in Ridder, in East Kazakhstan. Is that your hometown? Is that where your love of mountaineering began?
Burasheva: Ridder is where my mother lives. I was born in Serebryansk, also in East Kazakhstan, but our family moved to Ridder long ago, and from there I later moved to Almaty. Yes, the region is mountainous. Our peaks are not as high as those near Almaty, but they are wilder, two- and three-thousand-meter mountains. From certain points in Serebryansk, you can clearly see Mount Belukha, about 4,500 meters high, with its snow-white summit covered in glaciers year-round.
TCA: Have you climbed it?
Burasheva: Not yet. Even though it is lower than the eight-thousanders I have climbed, it still requires serious preparation. It’s a difficult peak. I hope to climb it this year or next. My love for the mountains began in childhood in East Kazakhstan, but my passion for high-altitude mountaineering developed in Almaty.
TCA: You became the first Kazakh woman to complete the Seven Summits. What did you feel standing on the final summit?
Burasheva: Pride and gratitude that everything worked out despite the difficulties. But emotions depend on the summit and the weather. On Denali, the highest peak in North America, we stayed on top for just 11 seconds. We took photos and immediately descended because of strong winds. One person in our group showed signs of frostbite; the tip of their nose turned white, so we had to leave quickly.
TCA: And on Everest?
Burasheva: We stayed about half an hour. Conditions were more favorable. But Everest is above 8,000 meters, the so-called death zone, and you cannot remain there long because oxygen is limited. On Aconcagua, by contrast, it was so warm that I was even able to rest briefly at the summit while waiting for the other Kazakh climbers.
TCA: Do you leave flags on the summit?
Burasheva: No. Nothing should be left there except snow and ice. We always take everything back with us.
TCA: You have climbed the highest peaks on all seven continents and several eight-thousanders?
Burasheva: Yes, these are two separate programs. I completed the Seven Summits: Kilimanjaro in Africa, Everest in Asia, Elbrus in Europe, Aconcagua in South America, Denali in North America, Carstensz in Oceania, and Vinson in Antarctica.
At the same time, I began working on the fourteen eight-thousanders. So far, I have climbed three: Everest, Manaslu, and Cho Oyu. There are fourteen in total. If sponsorship continues, and these expeditions are very expensive, I could complete the program within two to three years. I am currently 34 and in peak physical condition.
TCA: How much does one ascent cost?
Burasheva: From $40,000. It’s expensive. That’s why climbers spend as much time negotiating sponsorships as they do training. You can have one sponsor for multiple climbs or divide the funding among several.
TCA: What about gender equality in mountaineering? Are physical abilities equal?
Burasheva: I believe women are as physically strong as men and often more enduring. We may not lift 60 kilograms like Sherpas or some men, but in high-altitude mountaineering, there is no gender division. You are a full member of the team.
TCA: So you carry the same weight?
Burasheva: Exactly. Shared equipment is distributed evenly. There is no reduction because someone is a woman. On one expedition, each of us carried 11 kilograms of common gear.
TCA: How much weight do you carry in total?
Burasheva: It depends on the mountain. On eight-thousanders, you usually carry 10–15 kilograms, since Sherpas assist and loads can be staged higher in advance. But on Denali, for example, you carry everything yourself for 21 days. I had 25 kilograms in my backpack and another 25 kilograms on a sled.
TCA: How long do expeditions last, and how long does recovery take?
Burasheva: Eight-thousander expeditions can last 40 days or more. Afterward, I usually need one or two weeks of rest before returning to training. After my first eight-thousander, Everest, recovery took about a month. But after my last two climbs, which were back-to-back, I resumed training almost immediately.
TCA: How many major climbs can you do in a year?
Burasheva: It depends on the individual. Some climbers move extremely fast. In the era when Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov completed all fourteen eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, without Sherpas, and without fixed ropes, it was a completely different level of mountaineering. Completing the program quickly was almost impossible.
TCA: Are there climbers who have completed all fourteen more than once?
Burasheva: Yes. Nirmal Purja and Sanu Sherpa have completed the program multiple times and are working toward a third completion. Maxut Zhumayev continues to climb regularly and has repeated several eight-thousanders.
TCA: Has mountaineering become easier?
Burasheva: It has become more adapted to modern realities. Equipment is more advanced, and supplemental oxygen is widely used. You no longer need to pass strict selection processes as in Soviet times.
TCA: Do climbers share certain personality traits?
Burasheva: Not really. Everyone is different. But professional climbers need endurance, composure, and the ability to make fast, correct decisions.
TCA: Do mountains have character?
Burasheva: Yes. Every mountain has its own energy. All mountains are difficult and potentially deadly. Even those we consider “home” mountains have seen many recent accidents, avalanches, storms, and severe weather.
TCA: Mountain peaks are sacred in many cultures. What do they mean to you?
Burasheva: For me, they are sacred too. All fourteen eight-thousanders are located in Asia, in Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan, within the Himalayas and Karakoram. Anyone who has been to Nepal feels the special energy there.
I believe that the higher you go, the closer you are to God. You should approach the mountains with pure thoughts. At the summit, it feels as if you are in the palm of God’s hand. In everyday city life, this feeling is not so strong, but at altitude it becomes clear. You understand who you are and which goals are truly yours. You come face to face with your true self.
TCA: Which climbs were the most difficult? Did you ever consider quitting?
Burasheva: I never considered quitting mountaineering. I love it and believe it is what I am meant to do. But I have turned back when conditions were too dangerous. In October 2024, we retreated from Camp Four on Manaslu. It was the right decision. When sponsors are involved, there is responsibility and pressure. But the mountains will always remain. Our task is to return home alive and well.
TCA: What happens after you return?
Burasheva: It’s cyclical: climb, rest, train again. But training is no longer just preparation for a specific summit; it is part of my life. I run at least three times a week, hike, climb, and train for strength. Of course, there are more intense periods, but basic training is constant.
TCA: Before mountaineering, you worked as a financial analyst. Can this be combined with a conventional profession?
Burasheva: Yes, many people do exactly that to fund their climbs. In Almaty’s mountaineering community, most climbers work full-time. I am fortunate to have sponsorship support and can focus entirely on climbing.
