The European Union’s support for green transitions presents a real opportunity for Tajikistan to achieve sustainable agricultural development, particularly in the cotton industry, according to Mizrob Amirbekov, an agricultural development expert. Amirbekov highlighted this potential, underscoring the importance of international assistance in modernizing the sector, addressing environmental and social challenges, and establishing a fair and transparent production system.

Rising Demand, Persistent Problems

As global demand for environmentally friendly textiles grows, Tajikistan has a unique chance to establish a sustainable model for cotton production, Amirbekov explained. Increased interest in natural fabrics, driven by both demographic growth and technological advancements, is pushing the industry toward transformation. However, this economic potential is clouded by persistent challenges, including environmental stress, social risks such as forced labor, and a lack of transparency across the supply chain.

The global cotton sector has long faced scrutiny over high water consumption, widespread pesticide use, and unethical labor practices. In response, consumers and international regulators are increasingly pressing for a shift to more sustainable production methods.

EU Investment and National Reform

Tajikistan has begun responding to these challenges. In 2024, it approved the National Strategy for the Development of the Cotton and Textile Industry through 2040, prioritizing modernization, cost reduction, and the expansion of high-value-added production chains.

The European Union is playing a central role in this transformation, having allocated a €19.88 million grant to support the sector’s green transition. The funds aim to advance digital technologies, assist small and medium-sized enterprises, and help the industry adapt to climate change impacts, from droughts to rising temperatures.

“This is not merely financial aid, it’s an opportunity to build a truly sustainable cotton production system,” said Amirbekov. “Farmers and buyers need to understand the principles of sustainability and how agriculture can become a driver of the green economy.”

Ongoing Social and Environmental Challenges

Despite signs of progress, Amirbekov noted that significant problems persist. Farmers report that forced labor continues in some areas, with schoolchildren and unrelated government employees involved in cotton harvesting, practices that violate Tajikistan’s international commitments and damage the credibility of its organic cotton sector.

Environmental impacts are equally severe. Producing a single T-shirt can consume up to 2,700 liters of water, and nearly a kilogram of pesticides may be used per hectare. Amirbekov stressed the need to adopt certified standards such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), to promote sustainable cotton varieties, and to implement precision farming.

“Climate change is already reducing yields, droughts, floods, and temperature fluctuations are becoming more common,” he warned.

To address this, he advocates for sustainable seed varieties, efficient irrigation, and participation in carbon reduction programs.

Amirbekov also criticized the cotton supply chain as fragmented and poorly regulated, undermining trust from international buyers and complicating the enforcement of sustainability standards. He called for the introduction of digital platforms to track supply chains in real time.

Social inequality is another concern: women and small-scale farmers often face limited access to markets and lack property rights. Incorporating fair trade practices, supporting cooperatives, and enforcing gender equity policies could dramatically improve conditions in the sector.

Innovation, Oversight, and the Path Forward

Technology will also be vital to Tajikistan’s green transition. Tools such as blockchain for supply tracking, automated harvesting systems, sustainable fiber processing, and alternative materials can all help reduce environmental damage.

Amirbekov cited the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in Tajikistan as a case study with mixed results. While the program has aimed to support sustainable farming, many participants complain about low purchase prices for organic cotton. At a March 2024 conference in Dushanbe, stakeholders called for more rigorous oversight by donors and regulatory agencies.

In conclusion, Amirbekov identified four priorities for Tajikistan’s sustainable cotton transition:

1. Develop domestic processing and logistics infrastructure
2. Forge partnerships across the full supply chain—from field to fabric
3. Promote a distinctive Tajik organic cotton brand
4. Establish reliable export channels

With a fair, coordinated approach, he believes Tajikistan has the potential to become a regional leader in sustainable agricultural production.